(2004) The 2002 vintage was a Wine of the Month on wine-pages, and St Gisbertus have turned in another little cracker from the warm 2003 in the Rheinhessen. Made mainly from Ortega and Optima, this has a very elegant botrytis nose with notes of orange and honey, barley sugar and deep-set apricot and fig. On the palate it is delightfully fresh, with plenty of fruit, a lovely shimmering sweetness, and fine but gentle citrus acidity to balance. This actually has decent length too, and is an inexpensive wine I'd be happy to sip with - or instead of - dessert.