(2023) Bottled in magnums only, grapes are selected based on their intensity of fruit and muscular tannin structure. Such a saturated colour, barely a chink of light on the rim. We're into meat-stock and umami territory here, stopping short of leathery, but dark and brooding. The palate has to bring a smile to your face: after all that muscle on show, there's a soft heart here, enveloping super-sweet fruit, cashmere texture and both tannins and acid combining to give a bit of backbone to a big, hedonistic and utterly delicious wine. Maybe too much for Northern Rhône fans, but archetypal Barossa Shiraz. No UK retail stockist listed at time of review, though Harvey Nichols stocked the previous vintage and that price is given.