(2014) Pinot Grigio has become the by-the-glass wine for so many bars, pubs and restaurants that it can seem like an anonymous, generic white wine. But Pinot Grigio (aka Pinot Gris) can take on a more substantial form, and some producers are making striking examples. We are seeing more and more emanating from New Zealand with more flavour, texture and personality than more anodyne examples. This has a hint of pink to the colour (the skins of the Pinot Grigio grape become quite a deep red as they ripen late into the autumn) and the nose is deliciously inviting: it's like opening a can of tinned pears, with fruit and syrup notes, and a lovely feeling of freshness. In the mouth this is a wine with weight and texture. It is perhaps just off-dry, making it so easy to sip on its own, but also giving it broad food-matching potential.