(2015) Don't let the name or indeed the grape fool you: this is California does Italy, the wine from Lodi producer l'Uvaggio di Giacomo, who are obsessed with Italian varieties and also bottle Primitivo, Barbera and Moscato. There's a touch of waxiness on the nose - maybe like waxy lime peel - with a pleasing leafy green herb note and plenty of freshness. In the mouth it bursts with ripe and vivacious flavour, a touch of pepper and spice and plenty of crunch as well as hints of sweet smoky mango and lychee. Long, with a really fresh grapefruit and orange tang of acidity and only 12.5% alcohol, this really is a delight.