(2017) The Cave Cooperative at Ribeauville is first class, and this series of organic wines are among their best (there's a terrific Riesling in the same range). However the sometimes unexciting Pinot Blanc can sing in Alsace and it does here, soft floral and lightly waxy aromatics, a touch of almond and vanilla, but then pristine fruit on the palate. It is juicy, lemony, but textured with a rolling apple fruit sliced through by its acidity.
(2017) A typically steely rendition of Riesling from Hugel, and a fabulously accurate one. There is some spice, some beeswax lift, but the thrust is resolutely of precise apple fruit. It's an effortlessly concentrated wine, the dry extract is there to give it some gravitas, but it's all about those apple and tangy sherbet lemon flavours and streaking lemon and grapefruit acidity to make the mouth water. This has the concentration and balance to cellar rather well.
(2017) From a vineyard within the city of Colmar, a fine, salt and lemon-scented wine, a tiny suggestion - but no more than that - of waxiness, but pretty and pristine stuff. In the mouth it is dry and taut, an unflashy style, all cool apple cores and lemon, with a refined, quite long finish.
(2016) Sylvaner may be one of the less lauded varieties of Alsace, but it has a long and noble history in the region and Beyer's example is pale, crisp, fresh and most enjoyable with its zippiness from first mouthful to aftertaste, lemon rind bite and sheer apple acidity. Its a fine sipping dry wine, or all rounder for fish, salads and lighter supper dishes.
(2016) A glorious Riesling this from Trimbach, with a delightful waxy, mineral complexity on the nose, hints of paraffin wax and flowers, ripe orchard fruit beneath. On the palate it is sharp as tack but has its own sense of fat concentration and juiciness, as well as pin-sharp citrus and dry apple acidity. A beautiful example of an Alsace Riesling in a style that's bone-dry, but never austere.
(2015) A delightful if understated Riesling, this has stone-fruit aromas, lemon and gentle wax, peach down and stony minerals. On the palate it has a hint of being off-dry, with a clean, fruity palate, though whilst balanced, it perhaps lacks the last ounce of precision and pinging acidity of the very best examples.
(2014) 40 year old single vineyard on clay and limestone. Lovely mushroom and bracken undercurrent, with more sappiness and lovely Pinosity. Delicate fruit on the palate, again that sappy freshness and juiciness, again lovely soft but spicy and supporting tannins and the elegant acidity.
(2014) Clean, fresh orchard fruits, with gentle nettle background, but really focused on the apple, and has a hint of sweetness on the palate as well as lots of fruit. Good crisp acidity, elegant and finishes nice and dry with a little weight.
(2014) In M&S. Understated Gewurz aromatics, but very nice expression with gentle smoke, floral and leafy notes, and a touch of exotic rose perfume coming through. The palate has a touch of sweetness, and then lovely juicy fruit, a little mango or passionfruit brightness, juicy and fresh.
(2014) Developed, mealy and custardy stuff, with plenty of aged, oxidative notes. On the palate it feels quite steely and fresh, though the fruit has certainly dropped away, but still there is good balance and a nice, creamy texture to the finish. This has a nice sense of juiciness, a thrust of lime beginning to assert, and in the end a really nice, complex wine.