Wine Region: Burgenland

(2024) From clay and limestone soils in the Leithaberg region of Burgenland, this is a particularly clean and refreshing style of Grüner, mineral rather than overtly fruity. That gives real elegance as the nose opens with lemon zest and a hint of creamy yellow apples. There's a little sprinkle of white pepper too, which is classic. In the mouth that sense of elegant freshness continues, helped by having just 12% alcohol, long, pure and shimmering with acidity.

(2023) A blend of Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Welschriesling, this undergoes spontaneous fermentation and is made with minimal sulphur. Dazzling stuff: likey, juicy and floral, it's aromatically bright and buoyant. Is there a hint of the lightest spritz on the palate? Possibly it's just the sherbetty exuberance of the sliced Asian pear and citrus that flows through a dry, shimmering finish. A delight.

(2021) A biodynamic wine from Austria made with minimal intervention and fermented with natural yeast, there's a light, creamy earthiness to the pear and apple fruit, a hint of more tropical fruit in the background. Loads of ripe, sweet, juicy fruit on the palate, a fine grapefruity bite of acidity, full-textured but racy too with an expansive mid-palate tightening to a fine point in the finish.

(2018) A low alcohol blend of Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, St Laurent and Blaufränkisch, I guess this would count as a 'Pet Nat', a trendy new term for gently sparkling 'natural' wines and this has the credentials: biodynamic, closed with a beer bottle crown-cap and with only 10.5% alcohol. It is only gently effervescent, the colour lovely ruby/pomegranate red, with delicate strawberries and cream aromas. In the mouth the frizzante style gives a lively edge to crisp and flavourful red berry fruit, a hint of sweetness swept up in lovely, clear apple core dry acidity. Delightful.

(2016) With summer just about here how about the frothy strawberry and cherry charms of this? With its come-hither beauty it is well balanced, its strawberry pulp sweetness precisiely defined by its acidity. Delicious - and biodynamic.

(2014) >From vineyards of the venerable and noble Esterházy family, this Burgenland red is a very dark, purple colour and the nose has that classic, dry, coal-dust and blueberry character of Zweigelt, a lovely creamy and smoky note underpinning and yet floral and kirsch top-notes filling in too. On the palate it is rich and spicy, with a fairly prominent oak influence giving sweet cedar and vanilla, but the savoury and spicy black fruits filling the mouth too. Long, with a chewy tannin depth and good acidity, it's an impressive wine at the modest price and crying out for a steak.

(2013) The name means 'field blend', from old mixed vineyards of Pinot Blanc, Welschriesling, Muskateller, Traminer and other varieties. Very pleasing, fresh nose of apple and a touch of something peachy, with gentle herbal, delicately nettly notes. Lovely palate: silky smooth texture, with a little bit of grip and tannin, very good acidity. Fresh citrus and orchard fruits give energy and a clear lemony, salty, mineral finish. Grown on slate, rich in iron too. Only 1% is matured in small barrels, the rest in steel. This and the red wine below sell locally for around 9€ for a one-litre bottle.

(2013) Plenty of deep colour, with lovely big meaty, gamy nose, lots of dry, full black fruit of bramble and spice and a touch of earthiness. The palate has plenty of sweet fruit, but also that big sour, raft of acidity, that touch of salty mineral quality, the black fruit intensity is good and the tannins are really quite smooth and grippy. 50% on slate and 50% on loam clay. 1600 litre barrels for one year. Spontaneous fermentation.

(2013) A wine that came about "after a discussion of what to do with all the stuff that was planted in the 80s and 90s - the Cab and Merlot." In fact it is 30% Zweigelt, the rest made up of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The international varieties matured in barrique and 500 litre barrels, the Austrian in 1600 litre casks. Lots of cedary, elegant finesse, with some bloody notes and again the dry bloodiness of the Zweigelt marrying nicely. On the palate good energy and life about this, a liquorice and cedar edge to the black fruit and that nice tart, sour cherry acidity cutting through. Some good spice and a touch of chocolaty sweetness adds more balance. Really delicious stuff.

(2013) Only from vineyards that are 30 years old or older. 100% Blaufränkisch, bottled one month ago. Starts in equal portions of barriques and big casks, then into 500 litre barrels with tops removed. Really deep and glossy stuff, the purity of the fruit is so deep and fine, a blue/black intensity, licked with mocha and chocolate, plummy and deep. The palate has that lovely lick of saltiness again, the energy and the edge that is deliciously fresh, but married to the deep fruit and spice, concentrated and layered. Long and finishing on fruit extract and spice, that twist of cherry and plum skin to give a bittersweet quality.