(2018) A low alcohol blend of Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, St Laurent and Blaufränkisch, I guess this would count as a 'Pet Nat', a trendy new term for gently sparkling 'natural' wines and this has the credentials: biodynamic, closed with a beer bottle crown-cap and with only 10.5% alcohol. It is only gently effervescent, the colour lovely ruby/pomegranate red, with delicate strawberries and cream aromas. In the mouth the frizzante style gives a lively edge to crisp and flavourful red berry fruit, a hint of sweetness swept up in lovely, clear apple core dry acidity. Delightful.
(2016) With summer just about here how about the frothy strawberry and cherry charms of this? With its come-hither beauty it is well balanced, its strawberry pulp sweetness precisiely defined by its acidity. Delicious - and biodynamic.
(2014) >From vineyards of the venerable and noble Esterházy family, this Burgenland red is a very dark, purple colour and the nose has that classic, dry, coal-dust and blueberry character of Zweigelt, a lovely creamy and smoky note underpinning and yet floral and kirsch top-notes filling in too. On the palate it is rich and spicy, with a fairly prominent oak influence giving sweet cedar and vanilla, but the savoury and spicy black fruits filling the mouth too. Long, with a chewy tannin depth and good acidity, it's an impressive wine at the modest price and crying out for a steak.
(2013) Orange peel and lemon rind, that citrus skin and melon skin richness. Again a nuttiness to this and developing toasty notes. Lovely ripe fruit from vineyards facing the lake, all planted on limestone. Lovely fruity richness, texture and grip. Beautifully focused lime skin tang to the finish. Delicious and long.
(2013) Leithaberg DAC wines cannot be single vineyards, but must be representative of the region, approved by tasting committee. This has more than three days on skins and is fermented in barrel and left on lees for four months. Even richer and grippier, the nose has a touch of the orange blossom lightness to offset the concentration. The palate has huge juicy, grapefruity presence. There is a natural sweet ripeness here giving huge intensity.
(2013) A bigger site that encompasses five vineyards. Mostly loamy soils with iron. Rich, ripe black fruits, there is some spiciness, some tobacco and warmth, but the blue/black fruit is all there. The palate has delicious sweet fruited ripeness, with blackcurrant and intense black damson plum, the chocoalty depth of the tannins and good spicy character adding to the modest but nicely balancing acidity of the finish.
(2013) A really cool vintage. Slightly more fruit came from slate soils in this vintage whereas a little more would normally come from limestone for freshness. Ripe, lightly gamy nose, plenty of nutty black fruits, plenty of earthiness and gentle herbs and game. The palate has a lovely rounded, dry but very well defined palate with such a juicy squirt of tart black fruit skins to the acidity and firm tannins.
(2013) A really hot vintage. The limestone cools overnight and makes slightly more reductive wines. Much more rounded and opulent on the nose, the thicker, plumier dark fruits. On the palate it has such fat, sweet fruit and huge concentration. There is a warmth and solidity to this that Georg thinks in four or five years this will come good, the primary sweet fruit will subside a little then. And I can see the game and the herby quality in there that is just a little overshadowed by the thick plumpness of the fruit at present.
(2013) First bottling was 2011. From limestone soils, but harvested a little later. Made in 500-litre casks of Austrian oak. Big, chocolaty nose, with thick, rich fruit. Some spice and pepper and a little gamy note. But this is about earthy and chocolaty richness and conentration. Savoury, with the briny seashore note and wonderful juiciness. Has plenty of acidity and really intense feeling to the tannins that grip the wine now in that savoury umami character, the intense full and spicy fruit is in there, but this has massive structure and concentration.
(2013) From slate soils. Difference here is whole berries. Much lighter, ashier, earthy and floral notes, lots of cracked black pepper and crisp black and red berries - suggests more lift and energy. The palate has such an intense sweet fruit purity, the intensity and concentration is immense, and the palate has lovely finesse and lively, fine intense concentration. The tannins are very svelte, the acidity juicy in a wine that is arguably a little more straightforward, but makes up for that in its perfect purity.