(2023) From a plot of 4.81 hectares on rocky, calcium-rich soils and 40- to 50-year old vines. The fruit was fermented in stainless steel, 80% as whole clusters, with several weeks maceration. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels (25% new), like the 2019 vintage it has compelling, bright red fruit aromas, bold cherries, raspberry and a hint of undergrowth and liquorice giving a firm aromatic edge. That intensity of fruit carries through to the palate, where I really enjoyed the tension between 'prettiness' of red fruits and the hint of sinew and structure from firm tannins and keen plum-skin acidity. A lovely, robust and yet absolutely elegant wine.
(2023) Micault is a 1.29 hectare plot within the Clos Marey-Monge, on pink sandstone. The wine is certified organic. Eighty percent of the grapes are whole-bunch vinified, then aged in barrel for 15 months, but only 15% new oak. Typical of the domaine's wines, it marries a juicy, unashamed depth of ripe red berry fruit with terroir notes of minerals and light smokiness. On the palate that energy from very delicate oak influence and ripe but refined tannins and acids gives beautiful mouthfeel and texture. This will cellar for a decade or more, but it's balance and elegance means it offers immediate gratification.
(2023) An assemblage of all the parcels within Château de Pommard's walled and organically-farmed 'Marey-Monge' vineyard, fermentation took place in steel with 60% whole-clusters, before 15 months ageing in 20% new French oak barrels. As always with this property there's a sweet fruited solidity to the wine, aromas are spicy with pot-pourri notes of dried flowers and herbs, over dusty raspberry moving into black fruits. In the mouth the firm tannins of this young wine grip, the acidity adds another thread of sinew, but deep fruit is locked within. This will repay cellaring for sure, but in a rich but firm style is already delicious.
(2023) What a lovely wine this is, from the 5th generation Vervier family and vineyards close to Pouilly-Fuissé. Denis Vervier replaced the Gamay that his grandfather had planted on this granite plot with Aligoté believing it was an ideal terroir, and on his evidence he was right. It's a delicate wine, but perfumed, with floral and herbal touches to very cool but ripe fruit; spring flowers and fresh apples and pears. In the mouth it is dry and light- to medium-bodied, and though a lemon and salts lick of acidity drives the finish, there is a ripeness without particular sweetness on the mid-palate. Gossamer light, and sets the gastronomic juices flowing.
(2022) From old vines grown in Petit Chablis, an area on the edge of the main Chablis vineyards, not enjoying the famous Kimmeridgean soils, but still capable of producing excellent wines in the right hands - like this one. It's a surprisingly vivacious and tangy rendition of Chardonnay, almost with echoes of a Sauvignon Blanc from the nearby St Bris appellation. racy, with notes of passion fruit and guava, it is nimble and has plenty of zip and verve.
(2022) From a plot with very deep clay soils, this is a big-scaled and plush Pinot, slicked with vanilla and deep mulberry fruit. In the mouth that sense of plushness continues, a ripe and relatively solid style, creamy tannins and a bit of spice, but balanced and juicy, perhaps a touch of alcohol heat in the finish. No UK retail stockists listed at time of review.
(2022) Another lovely Pinot Noir from d'Etroyes, from vines around 50 years old, only around 10% of the oak for ageing being new. Fragrant and elegant despite 14% alcohol, it's all about crushed raspberry and firm-edged cherry fruit on the nose and palate, but there is structure here and enough weight on the palate. Firm tannins, fresh acidity, and the finish is on fruit, delicate spices and crispness.
(2022) The vines are 35 years old, and vinification in all stainless steel includes 12 months on the lees. It's a Vaillons in a more rounded, succulent and giving style, yeasty, with yellow apple and small floral nuances on the nose. In the mouth it has a lively sense of finesse and composure: nothing is aggressive here, and yet nothing is muted or flabby; it's a perfectly moreish and satisfying Chablis with weight and texture, but enough bright acid balance too.
(2022) From a 22-hectare family domaine in Rully, a prime location for sparkling Burgundy, this is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Aligoté, aged for 16 to 18 months sur lie and had 8g/l residual sugar. Lots of biscuit and brioche, but fresh and zippy too, a crunchy ripe apple and lemon fruitiness. There is minerality and some quite delicate fruit on the palate, lemon. But quite gentle with the persistent acidity balancing very nicely into a long clean and juicy finish.
(2022) As with all of the wines from Carabello-Baum that I have tried, this is a plush and concentrated style of Burgundy, expressing spice, black fruit and liquorice, emphasised here by the Gevrey-Chambertin terroir and its undeniable structure. Intense black cherry on the nose, but also small floral nuances and a suggestion of meatiness beneath, it's a powerful but intriguing aromatic. In the mouth the tannins are striking and chocolate-smooth, there's a real edge of acid and savoury, quite gravelly character to the ripe, deep fruit. Tingling with spice in the long finish, its an intense and concetrated expression, and a very impressive one. Should cellar for 10 years easily.
