(2016) Greece produces some masterful crisp white wines, often with salty tang of seashell minerality allied to excellent fruit, and this example from the island of Crete does not disappoint. Gently fragrant with straw, herbs and nuts over citrus and stone fruits, the palate is really quite weighty and textured, a full and grippy style of wine with fruit skin notes (melon, citrus) a fair bit of almost peachy fat and sweetness, then that pithy and saline streak of minerals into the finish. A powerful wine, at its best with meatier, white-fleshed fish perhaps.
(2015) Vidiano is a white wine variety which Karavitakis helped to re-discover or re-introduce into modern quality wine on Crete, made by combining late- and early-picked fruit. Extremely aromatic on the nose, with a Torrontes or Muscat-like lift and perfume, nettles, herbs and a whole florist's shop of bouquet. On the palate it does not disappoint: the flavours are tamer than the aromas, but it has personality, herb-laced dry fruit, pithy citrus acidity and length. Fascinating and different. £9.95, The Wine Society.