(2019) Several varieties in this fascinating wine, 40% Encruzado, 30% Gouveio, 12% Semillon and 18% unidentified field blend, with wines from the 2005, 2006 and 2009 vintages, it spends an average of 10 years in barrel. This is only the third release of this wine, 7000 bottles. Again some mint and vanilla characters, plenty of barrel influence, creamy and waxy, and still with some herbal and lightly truffle character, but the freshness and clarity is excellent. What an interesting wine, salts and sour lemon giving intense character.
(2019) At time of review this was in Lidl stores as a special parcel, and though I am not certain of stock levels, it is one of my best rosé buys for 2019. An uncommon rosé from Dão in Portugal, a blend of 50% Touriga-Nacional and 50% Alfrocheiro, weighing in with 12.5% alcohol. It has the requisite pale and contemporary colour, but backs that up with a lovely nose of small red berries, delicate spicing and a little rose-hip, floral nuance. In the mouth it balances its juicy redcurrant and raspberry fruitiness and tartness with enough sweetness and acidity to give a harmonious, dry finish. The stylishness here belies the lowly price tag. Watch the video for more information.
(2019) The mountainous inland region of Dão produces some great wines in northern Portugal, including this excellent blend of 40% Aragonez (tempranillo), with 30% each of Alfrocheiro and Touriga Nacional. Oak aged, this has a sumptuous and very inviting nose, filled with tobacco spice and dark berry fruits, there's a hint of cocoa and of a lighter, raspberry or even floral character. In the mouth the fruit really punches through, ripe, creamy and sweet, the gentle, background tannins and acidity together with that vanilla and tobacco spice linger in the finish. A great little buy in Lidl's spring 2019 'wine tour' which kicked off on 28th March. Note however, reports have reached me on 30th March of several stores being sold out of this wine.
(2017) A 15-year-old wine from the Dão doesn't come along every day, and the good news is this is an absolute beauty. A blend of the local Jaen (Spain's Mencia) and Rufete, it's a Burgundy-lover's dream, brimming with truffle and damp forest floor aromas, a touch of medicinal, herb and briar-wood, and a soft background of earthy, cedar-touched bramble fruit. In the mouth the creamy sweetness of the ripe berries is gorgeous, layered with spices and truffly, meat and herb notes, it is complex but at the same time deliciously moreish. What a treat. For more information watch my video review.
(2013) Made by the traditional method, this is a white sparkling wine made from Touriga Nacional, so effectively a Blanc de Noir. Grapes are sourced from various regions in Portugal, and the wine was aged on the lees for 36 months before release. This pours with a very pale colour and good stream of moderately small bubbles. The nose is fresh, a touch nutty, a touch herby, with some apple fruit character. On the palate there is a sweetness to this. The mousse if fairly modest, giving a gentle rolling effervescence, and the wine has a clean apple and pear fruit quality, maybe just hinting at peachy softness, but then plenty of acidity adds a tiny but enjoyable bitter twist to the finish. A simple wine, but balanced and enjoyable.
(2012) Very classy, sophisticated stuff, immediately showing quality French oak sheen and polish, savoury black fruits beneath with a little raspberry lift. The palate is quite rich and full, but maintains a keen edge, the oak filling in, but the balance impeccable. More international in style than some, but absolutely beautifully done.
(2012) Julia Kemper, a lawyer by profession, has a passion for organic issues and when she had the opportunity to restore the family's vineyards, in the Dão region, converted them to 100% organic farming, with family friend Dirk Niepoort as winemaker. The blend is 50% Touriga Nacional, 25% Tinta Roriz (Spain's Tempranillo), 15% Alfrocheiro and 10% Jaen, fermented in lagares before 12 months in French oak barrels. A serious, sinewy wine with meaty aromas and cedar and deep-set fruit. On the palate it is a touch austere perhaps, suggesting maybe a little time in the cellar will allow it to expand a little and loosen up, but undeniable concentration and quality.
(2012) Discreet, delicate, abundantly mineral and taut aromas, hinting at downy peach skins, but the minerality is the key. That lovely under-ripe character that suits Malvasia so well - no hint of blowsy quality here, it is all about clarity but with no shortage of creamy texture and nicely judged fruit to keep this vital but not difficult in any way.
(2012) Cool, clear, gently smoky and ashy, lovely stuff. The oak adds some creaminess, but all about clarity. On the palate quite pure, cool and long. Certainly on the lean side - arguably a bit austere - but fresh and vital.
(2012) Delicate, beautifully fruity and floral around the edges. Terrific style on the palate, with a sour lemon tang and grip, but such delicate gossamer and peach down nuances to the flavours. Lovely stuff.
