Wine Region: Elqui

(2023) From Falernia, the leading light of the Elqui Valley, way up on the fringe of the Atacama desert in Chile. This is relatively cool-climate country, and here there are notes of rhubarb and beetroot, a certain peppery character over the red and black fruits. The palate bursts with sweet, ripe and plump berries and red plum, little jammy notes of blackcurrant melt into espresso and spicy chocolate too, perhaps some American oak here adding extra sweet nutmeg spice. Bags of personality in a relatively plush and up-front style.  

(2022) A blend of Chardonnay and Pedro Ximenez from old vines in the high altitude vineyards of the Elqui Valley, some at over 2,000 metres. There's a rich and ripe character here, some dried fig and apricot, some custardy and candied notes, perhaps from the Chardonnay. There's a hint of sweetness on the palate, a hint of honey and nuttiness, a bite of bittersweet grapefruit or orange to the acids of the finish.

(2016) Big, heavy bottle for this range-topping blend, the Cab and Shiraz aged in French oak, the Carmenere in French and American oak, before blending. Deep, with mocha and cassis in abundance, a touch of graphite, and a spicy, mulberry richness. In the mouth the sweetness of the fruit fills the mid-palate, but the spice and touch of char from the barrels and tannins adds depth, and there is good acidity to keep the picture juicy and fresh, into a nice, long, fruit and spice finish. Should have a few years cellaring potential too.

(2016) A nice, soft and mellow colour, and brackeny aromas of mushrooms and briar, a warming chestnut and soft berry fruit. In the mouth it has medium body and good acidity, giving it some energy through the mid palate of those berry and briar flavours, a touch of toast and spice, and a decent length of finish.

(2016) Fairly subdued on the nose, this is about delicate lime and blossom, without the pungent mineral character of some of the best Rieslings. That story continues on the palate, where the gossamer delicacy and gentleness is pleasing, but it does just lack a bit of real character.

(2012) >From arguably Chile's most exciting Sauvignon region, Elqui on the edge of the Atacama desert. Absolutely typical (and that means excellent) aromatics here of fresh, terribly delicate pea shoots and tomato leaf perfume, leading onto a palate that is zingy-fresh, with a vibrant core of acidity that is mineral and limey, scything through the precise, cool fruity flavours. Dry in the finish, this has crowd-pleasing aromatic and flavour fireworks, but a glacial cool too.

(2012) This Syrah is also from the Elqui Valley, home of some of Chile's coolest vineyard sites. It has a terrific nose, with real perfume of game, black pepper and grilled bacon fat layered over abundant berry fruit. Silky on the palate, there's plenty of pleasing fruit density and sweetness here, really quite fat and juicy, with spice and a touch of chocolate adding more flesh, before a lean, tightening core of tannins and keen cherry-ish acidity pulls it together. A cracking Syrah for the money this.

(2010) Name means 'Dry Cliff' in this single vineyard wine from Limari fruit. 100% barrel ferment, with a very careful barrel selection from different forests so as not to overpower fruit. 50% new oak. Deliciously honeyed nose, with nutty tones and a very cool, pure, melon fruit. There's a gentle cashew richness, but only 10% malolactic keeps the freshness. There's a creaminess, but also a touch of soft, leafy herbal quality and touch of salty minerality and a fine, very dry and elegant finish. Delicious and very classy.

(2010) Late harvest Muscatel and Semillon with fine floral, peachy fruit. Quite full and rich, but sweetness is moderate and it finishes with a bit of bite through some phenolic richness and good acidity.

(2010) From the Choapa valley, south of Limari but still 200 kilometres north of Santiago. De Martino is the only producer with fruit from this valley. 100% Colluvial (volcanic formed) soils on mostly clay, 845 metres above the sea in the Andes foothills. There is a touch of resinous, almost balsamic quality, with rich, thick raspberry and darker plummy fruit notes. The palate has lots of sweetness, but a roasted chestnut richness and plenty of body, though the freshness is there, with good acidity and a bit of spice.