(2023) From old vines planted in the highest part of the estate, yields here are very low. A full 24 months on lees is evident on the nose, where salts and lemons carry a certain fat and suggestion of skinny grip. The palate has great saline richness and full flavour, a nut husk and salty dryness but not with juiciness and mouth-watering freshness. Gastronomic, serious and lovely.
(2023) From 2017, there is obvious development t here, a pale yellow-gold colour and the nose waxy and lemony, with notes of waxy parcel string and nutty, buttery notes. In the mouth it is dry and saline, there is firm lemony acidity driving through the ozone character, a hessian-like dryness, apple cores and pithy citrus into a satisfying, long finish.
(2023) This terrific Albariño is aged for 30 months in stainless steel, the time on the lees adding texture and layered richness. A lovely yello-green in colour, aromas are creamy, almondy and peachy. Rosy red apple notes and lime add interest to both nose and palate, a fine saline slipperiness to the texture, superb acidity and just a complete, savoury and satisfying wine.
(2023) A single vineyard Albarino from Granite soils, the vineyards with some elevation, lees ageing has perhaps added to the depth of colour Lots of creamy, almond inflections to the ripe apple fruit, and a lively, juicy, full fruited palate touched with tropical fruit but a fat lemony juiciness and some honked notes, lemony acidity too, a touch of salts, and a long, delicious finish.
(2023) An interesting wine, fermented in stone amphora, where it ages on the kees for seven months. That adds a firmness and texture to the wine, the nose opening with a little waxy character, wet river stones and melon skins and lemon rind gripiness. That textural richness is obvious, with plenty of ozoney sea-spray, a ripe, rosey red apple fruitiness and excellent acidity. A fascinating and delicious Albarino. No retail stockists in the UK listed at time of review.
(2023) At six years old this Albariño has developed a touch of gold to the colour, and more than a touch of acacia honey to the aroma, and deeper but still super fresh yellow plum and apricot fruit. On the palate there's a slippery weight to the fruit, glossy and citrussy, more honey and almond richness and a pristine, long finish. Super stuff. Note price and stockist quoted is for the 2016 vintage at time of review.
(2023) At 11 years old this is just outstanding. It has aged like a fine white Bordeaux in many ways, with gentle almond and honey, also chamomile and lime peel, a suggestion of mineral salts. On the palate sweet, ripe and with a light waxy texture, glittering acidity and the richness balanced by a little river stone firmness, great length and a touch of salinity. Outstanding as I say.
(2023) From Rioja producer Marques de Vargas, vines are over 35 years old and come from vineyards in the southerly Condado de Tea region close to the Portuguese border. It's a particularly tangy and vibrant rendition,lots of citrus zest to the aromas, then a palate of punchy, sherbet-bright character, the acids singing in the finish with that typical saline tang, which rings clear like a bell. Just hints of sweeter, more peachy flavours coming through from this slightly warmer sub-zone.
(2023) From Candado de Tea, with 8g/l dosage this is technically Brut. It is made with a selection of fruit using the traditional method, and aged for a minimum of nine months in bottle. It's a hugely enjoyable fizz this, the mousse cushiony and rich, with aromas of biscuit, cream and exotic, ripe fruit. The palate has a sweet and, again, exotic fruit ripeness and sweetness, with balancing acidity pushing out the finish. Hard to say whether I'd have recognised Albariño as the variety, but a really delicious and satisfying sparkling wine.
(2023) From a single vineyard of 40-year-old vines on granite soils in Salnés, free-run juice is fermented with indigenous yeast and aged on the lees for a full 36 months. This has a fabulous nose, blending exotic and luscious fruit with a more steely, lemon and salts firmness, but an oatmeally sense of richness too. The palate echoes the nose, weighty and rich, gently nutty, but with a beautiful limey fruit purity and acid finish.
