(2016) Fabulous stuff this, made from the Jura's Trousseau grape, which even in the region's still red wines gives such a pale colour that the wines are really more rosé than red. Here a deliciously dry, lightly oxidised style of wine has a pale orange colour and indeed orange and bruised apple fruit before a palate that is fresh and long, with crisp mousse and a touch of wild strawberry flavour that is delicious.
(2014) A Vin Jaune with 14.5% abv and made from Savagnin. Such depth and nuttiness here, such Shellac-like lift and concentration. Walnut husks, some herbs and really bone dry, peaty and complex. Salt and nervous, searing dryness almost assault the palate, but with such shimmering light and intensity amongst those crunchingly dry flavours. There are massively complex hints of coffee and lemon zest, all sorts of nutty richness, but just marvellously meaty and umami character, the curry-leaf and cumin character just wonderfully savoury.
(2014) Lots of apple and a nice meaty undertones, savoury but very crisp. The palate explodes with crunchy flavour, with lots of juicy apple and the zip of lemon zest. Long and easy to drink, despite being totally dry in the finish.
(2014) Labelled as NV, but comes from the 2011 vintage. 100% Chardonnay, it has a pale yellow/green colour and very fine nose and bubbles. Aromas of creamy and taut apple fruit, hints of nettle and straw, but not too much yeasty character. The palate has delicious sweetness of fruit, the ripe apple and the cool, fine lemony fruit is clear and fresh and dry, with a subtle mousse that seems of lowish pressure, though there is good acidity and a softly foamy gentleness giving a zippy but easy balance.
(2014) 100% Ploussard (an alternative spelling of Poulsard) and 11.5% alcohol. >From a biodynamic estate and aged in large casks for a year. Pale and pink-amber coloured - delicious, coffeeish, fruity but has lovely mushroom and truffle dryness and complexity. Not hugely complex, but intriguing and delicious.
(2014) The second red wine is 13% abv, also aged in large casks for a year, but much more vibrant colour: crimson and cherry bright. Intriguing nose, a touch of something fine and herbal, almost vaguely chemical like a natural soap, but the palate runs into quite solid, dry red berry fruits. Plenty of acidity here and there is a tug of tannin and roughening mouth-feel here, with a more structured character. Bone dry and has a bit of steel at its core.
(2014) This weighs in with 13% abv and has a creamy, nutty and lightly oaky/toasty nose with a custardy roundness and approachability. There is a hint of bruised apple sourness of fruit. Quite Burgundian. The palate is bone dry, with lovely racy appeal, Again it is nutty and rich, but has a smooth texture and a pithiness of the acidity along with a hint of toast.
(2014) Biodynamic and 13% abv, this is a 50/50 blend of the two varieties. It is instantly very dry, with a salty, introspective nose, tiny straw and underripe apple and pear notes, but closed and nuttily dry. The palate has a very dry appeal, all taut pith and peel of citrus, with a woody apple core dryness. But there's a real core of sweetness to this, or rather of ripe intensity at the core. It does broaden a little in the finish, a touch of cream and honey, and a lovely wine.
(2014) 70% Chardonnay and 30% Savagnin, with 13.5% abv. A flor-affected wine, and though the veil of yeast can be inoculated, the best producers encourage a natural yeast flor. Oranges and nuts on the nose, with that salty almond and nut husk intense dryness. The sour and sharp bite of Cox's Pippin on the palate, with walnut and coffee and lovely dry but full flavours. Deliciously tangy and salty in the finish.
(2003) This bronze-tinged traditional method sparkling pink wine is immediately appealing. It is made from 100% Poulsard, an indigenous variety of the Jura, that is pale red-skinned, and makes natural rosé wines with skin contact. It is quite aromatic, with soft red fruits and a floral note, straw and just a hint of caramel in the background. On the palate the mousse is lively and the flavours very crisp; raspberry and red fruit flavours are quite robust and earthy, with a softer, peachy, strawberry undertone. There is a little tannic grip and incisive acidity freshening the finish, in this food-friendly, fairly serious style of fizz.