(2022) Brigit and Gloria Eichinger are the mother-and-daughter team behind this lovely Kamptal Riesling, dry and made in stainless steel for both fermentation and ageing. What a delightful nose, floral with leafy green herb, dill-like notes, a hint of candle wax in the background. The palate has a nuance of lusciousness, with really ripe and vibrant fruit, before a shimmering, glacial-pure acidity that slices through the spangle-bright fruit.
(2012) The name Heiligenstein is derived from a medieval name, 'Hellenstein', meaning "hot as hell," with reference to the sunshine on the south-facing slopes. Beautifully clear, limpid nose of fragrant apple skins and blossom, a touch of lime and a delicate spiciness. On the palate this has such a juicy, freshly-squeezed lemon and lime clarity, and although it is tight and lean, there's lovely ripeness too. Long and elegantly framed by a mineral and citrus acidity, this is delicious, grown-up stuff.
(2012) This Riesling is fermented in large barrels of Austrian oak with only natural, ambient yeasts. One year older than the Heiligenstein, there is little mineral development here, small notes of waxiness, and quite a rich feel to the fruit with lime and something a touch more peachy. On the palate it is very juicy, with a mountain-stream freshness and clarity. It seems a little more open and approachable now than the youthful Heiligenstein, though perhaps lacking a touch of its concentrated flavour. Very elegant.
(2012) There's a slightly cheesy note on the nose here that just muddies the freshness and herby mineral character of the wine. On the palate it is a lot clearer, and more decisively vibrant. The fruit is very dry, and the cool, underripe apple and pithy lemon character of fruit and acidity means this would probably fare better when matched to fish or perhaps a chicken schnitzel or other white meat dish. Around
(2012) Selected grapes for this cuvée were picked at the beginning of October. Fermentation in stainless steel is followed by a period resting on the lees to add richness. There's a tiny bit more colour in the glass, and the nose has a concentration of apple and pear skins, a little tug of orange and some background spiciness. On the palate it is a big grapefruit and lemon core of pithy, uncompromisingly dry fruit and acidity that drives this wine, but there's a clarity about it, a hint of salty minerals that makes it subtly complex too.
(2012) Mainly harvested from two dedicated vineyards, the wine was matured in larger, 500-litre oak barrels for 18 months. It has a lovely pale colour and appealing Pinosity with rhubarb and beetroot aromas over some spice and vanilla, and a red berry fruitiness coming through. The oak is fairly obvious, but the whole, tobaccoey picture is appealing. In the mouth this is quite a substantial style; it is not at all heavy or ponderous, but there's a ripeness and textural weight and a chocolaty depth to the fruit. Spices and a nice sweet earthiness as well as good cherryish acidity show into quite a long finish in an impressive Pinot Noir.
(2012) This has a hint of tropical fruit and even an estery banana note on the nose, some lightly custardy creaminess and a sprinking of white pepper. On the palate it is full and generous, and the flavour just bangs out of the glass with loads of apple and citrus, and again that little clove, pepper and spice background from the grape. Nicely confident and characterful stuff, it would be great with a bowl of gnocchi or pasta with pesto and chile.
(2011) Deliciously precise, focused fruit, the clarity of a mountain stream.
(2010) Part fermented in 2,500l old neutral casks, this is quite waxy, nettly and pungent on the nose, with lots of vivacious Riesling character. The palate is zesty and riven with fantastic, crystalline clarity of fruit and mineral acidity. Like a glacier shockwave in the mouth and absolutely delicious.
(2002) Notes of clean, crisp sherbetty apple fruit, floral nuances, and a shimmering streak of minerality. The palate is youthful and taut, with crisp lemon and more mineral qualities, little hints of more luscious pear and melon, and searing acidity. There are nuances of a wax, but this is all about focused minerality.
