(2019) Selected parcels of Ortega were harvested late to give 150g/l residual sugar, and treated like an ice-wine with the must chilled to -8ºC before pressing and fermentation and ageing in barrel for 6 months. This has no botrytis, but instead a bright orange and lemon sherbet nose, immediately reminiscent of a Canadian icewine, but less rich and unctuous. That freshness and zip counterbalances the sugar very nicely in the mouth, with pear juice and peach flavours, a touch of honey, and a cleansing lemon zest acidity. For lighter desserts, and though rather expensive for the half-bottle, a lovely wine.
(2018) This is close to equal proportions of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, with 50% of the Chardonnay fermented in older Burgundian barrels followed by 20 months ageing in temperature-controlled cellars prior to disgorgement. The bubbles are small and persistent, the nose racy and refined, with a little biscuity richness over crisp lemony fruit. The richness becomes more evident on the nose, yeasty and quite complex. In the mouth there's a fat lemony fruitiness that is both keen and taut, and quite mouth-filling, a fine mousse and plenty of fruit at the core of this. Balanced and long, a dry, chalky sense of minerality emerges, and a low dosage here I think, keeping this ultra crisp in the finish.
(2018) Only the second ever release of Chapel Down's top single vineyard Chardonnay. It's harvested by hand, whole bunch pressed, and fermented with wild yeasts in French oak barrels where it spent nine months on the lees. It has lovely clarity, a sheen of almond and nougat over not too ripe orchard fruit, and is immediately elegant. In the mouth it has very good concentration, good ripeness, an enjoyable tension between sweet peachy fruit and a tangy, orange and lemon acidity. Medium-bodied and staying nicely balanced, it's a keen, lithe Chardonnay of great style, the finished just rounded out with subtle oak notes. Burgundian? That's certainly a fair ballpark in which to place this.
(2018) From the 'heart' of the blend, this is both a vineyard selection and a juice selection, made from the best Chardonnay blocks and only the first 'cut' of the finest juice from the pressing. Fermented in oak barrels with wild yeasts, it has a moderately low dosage of 6g/l. It's such a different beast from the regular Blanc de Blancs, leesy, earthy and 'dirtier' on the nose, which is part of the wild and barrel-ferment character, and makes up in complexity for what it lacks in the BdB's pristine clarity. The palate has that chewy complexity too, mouth-filling and serious, the choice here is not only about price, it's very much about style.
(2018) This sparkling apple wine is made from fruit grown in Hush Heath's Kent orchards (Cox, Bramley and Egremont Russet), with secondary fermentation in bottle just like their other sparkling wines, and using Champagne yeast. It has an elegant cider apple nose, lightly nutty and with a rosy, ripe apple skin fruitiness. In the mouth there's an echo of sweetness just to offset the bracing acidity, and the apple flavours push through cleanly and brightly. Most enjoyable for a change.
(2018) Made with Bramley, Cox's and Russet apples from the estate, just like the white Sparkling Apple Wine, but with the addition of strawberry and blackcurrant, mostly for colour I suspect as the flavours are resolutely appley. There is a hint of extra strawberry sweetness perhaps, but the sharp apple acidity ensures this finishes feeling dry and fresh. Equally enjoyable as its white partner, and lovely summer drink with 8% alcohol.
(2018) A really nice, crowd-friendly traditional method blend of the three main Champagne grapes, aged for a minimum of one year in Hush Heath's cellars. It's fruity and bright, pear and juicy red apple and seemingly quite sweet: certainly a higher dosage than some here, but with excellent citrus acidity and some nice creamy and lightly toasty character from the lees ageing.
(2018) Made only in the best years with Chardonnay from the oldest, eight-acre single vineyard. Pale gold with fine bubbles, there's a fine bready, biscuity character with creamy fruit and lemon. The mousse is crisp and fine, adding to the refreshing, bright focus of the wine in the mouth, just a little creamy weight from the lees ageing against the cut of the pear and citrus that runs elegantly to the finish. Try with seafood or, my favourite, a roast chicken.
(2018) Still one of the stars of their line-up, the vintage rosé first brought Hush Heath to the wine world's attention, and this 2013 was tasting really good: delicate aromas of small summer berries, just a touch of pastry-like creaminess, but fresh and inviting with its pale, light colour. In the mouth the mousse is fine and persistent, and that dry redcurrant fruitiness fills the mid-palate, and stylish lemon and lime acidity extending the finish. A blend of 44% Pinot Noir, 48% Chardonnay and 8% Pinot Meunier aged three years on the lees.
(2017) From Chapel Down's single vineyard on chalky soils next to the Kit's Coty neolithic monument in Kent. It's all-Chardonnay and from and excellent vintage, and partially barrel fermented. Lots of streaming bubbles and a gorgeous nose, a hint of custard cream biscuits, full and generous with ripe apple and a hint of fragrant lime rind. The palate has a full mousse, very easy and approachable sweet fruitiness, but a streaking, pithy lemon and mineral acidity. Long and delicious, but with a serious side.
