(2023) A blend of 60% Montepulciano with Cesanese, 10% left on the vine to dry - appassimento. Aged on the lees for three months. Taut, quite solid black colour and fruit character, and edge of rustic bloodiness. 13g/l of sugar gives that Amarone-like sweet and concentrated character, a little dried fruit, rosemary and tobacco, turning a little chocolaty in the finish.
(2020) This is a punchy, zesty and aromatic white made from the obscure Bellone Bianco variety in Lazio, not far from Rome and best known as the home of Frascati. There's a fat, waxy lemon and melon rind character, touches of riper more exotic fruits, but very clean and fruity. In the mouth it has weight and mouth-filling texture, and the acidity has that saline slightly slippery touch that gives this an extra ounce of weight and intensity, into a long and well balanced finish. Unusual, very easy to drink, yet with a bit of gravitas.
(2019) From Lazio, a red wine made from the Nero Buono variety - the Nero, or 'black' giving the clue that it is a grape that gives intense colour and is often used in blends to beef up the lighter-coloured varieties of the region. Very handsomely packaged, the aromas quite subtle with a wisp of smokiness, some twig and bracken notes and dry redcurrant fruit. In the mouth there's a silky texture that is pleasing, and a good density of sweet plum and winter berry fruits, a typically Italian bitter cherry bite to the acidity and some decent, nicely ripe tannins to bolster the finish. Unusual and really rather good - and £9.90 to Daily Drinker Club members. Watch the video for more information and food matching ideas. This comes from the Daily Drinker Club's most recent six-bottle case offer: read my notes on other wines in the selection.
(2019) Cesanese is the principal red grape variety of the Lazio region, home also to Frascati, in the hills around Rome. This is a terrifically deep, juicy and soulful example, crammed with crushed cherry and sweet red berry fruit on the nose, a little lift of rose-petal or the sweetie shop. In the mouth it is dry and substantial, but that smooth, elegant core of fruit never wavers. There is tannin structure here, and there is a lithe, juicy acidity at the core, but the phalanx of creamy, concentrated fruit drives through the finish.
(2017) From Lazio, and the DOC of Roma which was created only in 2011, this is an unoaked white from the Malvasia variety and the Frascati-based house of Principe Pallavicini. Immediately juicy and fresh, lots of orchard fruits and a nice little suggestion of waxy citrus rind and melon skin. In the mouth it is really quite sweet. I am not sure if there is residual sugar or just the sweetness of ripe grapes, but it is soon joined by a salty lick of acidity to leave this tangy and positively seaside-fresh in the finish.
(1999) Green tinged with fresh, zippy aromas of citrus and a hint of nutty, leesy quality. Decent fruit and balanced, not too tart.
(1998) Very pale and delicate colour. Slightly almondy nose. Very fresh. Surprisingly weighty on the palate with a subtle, toffee richness beneath bracing grapefruit acidity and clean, lime fruit. Long, classy finish. The best Frascati I've tasted for some time.