(2024) From a small, sustainably-run estate in Martinborough, this is absolutely the style I expect, with a bit of solidity and higher alcohol, but not without fragrance and elegance. At eight years of agethere's a mere hint of tawny on the rim, but aromas are immediately fresh, with wild strawberry meshing with a sizzle of bacon fat, some truffle and a deeper fruit character. The palate has a certain meatiness and there is a grounding of coffee-ish oak that gives a touch of char. But on top, the fruit is bright and sharply focused, with plenty of acidity and a smoothness to the tannins. I do feel the heat of the alcohol a little, which knocks it back a point or two, but a premium example of quite a serious Martinborough style.
(2024) With 13.8% alcohol this is just a bit lighter than the 2014, and for me, that's a marginal benefit. Colour is much the same with just a hint of amber on the rim as nine years old, but the nose seems to have just a touch more light and shade, floral and light, herbs and briarwood character showing through a little more. Delightfully sweet fruit on the palate, this gaining in sweet-fruited purity what the 2014 has in more muscular density. Very refined and elegant this, in both fruit, tannin, cherry-ripe acidity and a more background quality to the oak.
(2024) Made with 10% whole bunches, part wild-fermented. After 14 – 15 days maceration the juice was basket pressed into French oak barriques, 20% of which were new. Still that chestnutty character, but perhaps just a little more lift to this, a little more floral and raspberry fruit character, but the meaty, umami notes still there there, a cordial-like richness. In the mouth tannins are quite silky but edge the plummy fruit with a bit of liquorice or endive bite, accentuated by a firm acid structure. Oak is background component, perhaps adding just a touch of espresso darkness. Some more time in bottle would suit the wine I think.
(2024) This Reserve vintage from Dublin St. is in an absolutely perfect place. Basket pressed to French oak barriques (25% new) for 12 months, it is infused with a swirl of tobacco and coffee, a cedary elegance too. The fruit is intense but in an elegant, red-fruited style, floral notes flitting around raspberry and fat, ripe cherry. The palate caresses with silky tannins and more of that glossy, ripe and juicy fruit, but there's an edge here, between truffle and tapenade, giving a savoury, chewy balance to the opulence. Long, fruity, but serious and juicy with a keen orange acidity, it's a lovely Pinot.
(2023) At the southern end of the North island, Martinborough is New Zealand's original Pinot Noir stronghold. This comes from 20-year-old vines planted on gravels with just 60 metres or so altitude. It spent 11 months in French oak barriques, 22% new. Darker and denser than the Alsace wine, a much meatier aromatic profile, still red fruit here, but more spiced plum, a warm earthiness. In the mouth the wine is more dense, but it has real agility thanks to taut tannins and plenty of cherry and plum skin acidity and dryness offsetting a creamy mouthfeel. A baritone to the Muré's tenor.
(2023) From Craggy Range's Martinborough vineyard on Te Muna Road, this is fermented with ambient yeasts and spends 11 months in French oak. It has a medium-deep garnet colour with light on the rim, and really quite a sumptuous red-fruited nose, where vanilla, spices and florals, a little rosemary and sandalwood, melt into raspberry and darker plum. In the mouth the tannins are very fine, very sandy, but have real grip, and there is real concentration of fruit packed into a framework that is currently allowing only glimpses of sweet cherry, briar and exotic spice. Good acidity too, in a wine that is confident, serious and structured and should cellar well for 10 years.
(2022) From a block on Te Muna Road, planted at high density in 1999. Fermented in large French oak casks, it was aged in 50% new French oak barriques for 18 months. Dark, less vibrantly coloured than the Te Mata, there's a sappy character to this, quite a deep olive note to the black fruit, gentle truffle beneath. On the palate so juicy and bold, a really decisive acid thrust with a creamy and dense tannin and wood background, giving a polish and intensity.
(2022) Most of the fruit comes from certified organic vineyards 35 kilometeres from the coast, six different clones of Pinot. Fermented with a pied de cuve wild yeast, 20% whole bunches, and 10 months maturing in French oak. Relatively dense and dark in colour. A big, bold fruit and oak nose that is very different from the lighter style of the preceding wine. Ripe and chocolaty, but there is perfume. The palate has weight and textue, an earthy character, truffle and woodland notes and a little lick of salt on the finish.
(2021) Larry McKenna's Pinot Gris sees a little oak, and has a very pleasantly spicy, lightly floral aroma, the fruit being quite rich and deep: more baked apples and pears, some tarte tatin pastry notes too. In the mouth the sweetness of a little residual sugar emphasises the luscious fruit, lots of succulent nectarine leads to fine citrus. Acid slices through rather beautifully.
(2021) A little closed on first opening, this single vineyard wine blossoms in the glass, a lovely layering of floral, fruit and truffle aromas beautifully integrated and refined, chestnut and briar notes adding depth. In the mouth there is creaminess and a ripe, sweet cherry and red plum fruit, a fine sense of mineral tension through the tannins and acidity, to give this tension as well as a certain opulence. Could well benefit from further cellaring for five to ten years.
