(2021) From around the village of Piesport, a 'trocken', or 'dry' Riesling, weighing in with 12.5% abv, and winemaker Thomas Haag has fermented this with wild yeasts. There's a noticeable amount of sulphur aroma on this on initial pouring, which dissipates rather slowly, but when it does, stone fruits, lemon and a slaty mineral quality comes through. In the mouth that flinty/mineral edge is maintained, with apple and citrus, a note of fennel and a delightful surge of more tropical, juicy nectarine sweetness tempered by fine acidity. That initial sulphur does knock this back a point or two for me.
(2020) JJ Prüm is one of Germany’s star names, run today by Katharina Prüm. From the steep, slate covered Himmelrich vineyard, it is made in stainless steel and bottled late to avoid the addition of too much sulphur. It opens with some flint and beeswax and paraffin over greengage and peach, the palate delicate and lacy, a good level of sweetness that is braced by mouth-watering acidity, a touch of pink grapefruit but more of that peachy fruit coming through too. A lovely wine for sipping on its own, finishing with purity and balance.
(2019) Made with skin contact during six weeks of fermentation, this is dry, unfiltered and spends a further period of six months in old Fuder (Foudre) large barrels. Light cider notes, a touch of wheat beer yeastiness, the fresh lemon juicy palate refreshing, bone dry impression on the finsih and clean. 7g/l of residual sugar.
(2019) Like the 2017, fermented and marcerated on skins for six weeks. After pressing the wine is aged in old 1,000-litre Fuder barrels for a futher six months. Immediatey more aromatic compared to the 2017, orange peel and clove, juicier, perhaps a little less 'orange character' at this stage, but beautifully drinkable.
(2019) Fantastically dry, searing salt and lemon mineral acidity is the first thing that strikes about this wine, though it is softened on the palate by 8g/l of residual sugar. It has real concentration and substance despite being gossamer light. A bad spring frost delayed ripening and reduced the crop in 2017, but a very good summer meant harvest was actually a little early.
(2019) Lovely hints of nettle and wax join the fresh, clean and zipping citrus, again a distinct salty mineral tow to this. A lightly waxy and creamy texture to the acidity here giving a touch of roundness, with 7g/l of residual sugar. Markus suggests serving not too cold - 15 degrees C or so. There's a softened edge to the acid, but absolutely no lack of balance. A lovely, approachable wine.
(2019) A little more gold creeping into the colour, smells a little more ripe and has that touch of beeswax again, fat limey notes. The palate quite weighty, hinting at nectarine, but before that can take any hold, acidity sweeps in, cutting this with salts and pithy lemon into a long finish. 9g/l of residual sugar in this essentially dry wine.
(2019) With 25g/l of residual sugar, this 12-year-old wine from a warm vintage has around 25% Botrytis fruit in the blend. There is a lovely hint of barley sugar, golden Sharon fruit and yellow plum, beautifully balanced sweetness, a gorgeous weight and full texture, glittering acidity. Orange peel and clove hints and the first wine with the correct age to develop complexity says Sybille. Fabulous.
(2016) More pale gold than truly orange, Australian winemaker Martin Cooper is an admirer of Jura and natural wines, so has made this highly unusual Riesling with natural yeast, 30 days on skins and minimal sulphur. Its aromas are fresh and boldly appley, a hint of straw, a hint of nuttiness, but bright and expressive. In the mouth it is dry and again distinctive, with apple core and citrus pith dryness, but a fine sense of purity and of delicacy as the acidity extends the finish.
(2016) A fabulous, just off-dry Riesling, shimmering with zesty, tangy, lip-tingling freshness, the aromas of rosy red apple and delicate floral notes have that touch of beeswax again too, but then burst through on the palate with real tang, like a dawn shower in a cold mountain stream, though there is some nectarine sweetness and hints of fat juiciness too on the mid-palate, in a purely delightful wine.