(2016) A fabulous late-harvest Riesling with 99.9g/l residual sugar from Zwölberich's biodynamic vineyards, this has a wonderfully waxy nose, deep citrus peel and nectarine scents, and hints of that paraffin-like minerality that's so appealing in this mix. In the mouth it is seductively sweet, but as always it is the acid juiciness that makes such a wine, the nectarine and peach juice sweetness sliced through with shimmering Mandarin orange fruity acidity into a long finish. Terrific, and 24.80€ from the winery.
(2016) Another outstanding sweet Riesling from Zwölberich's biodynamic Langenlonsheim Königsschild vineyard, with 70.7g/l of residual sugar. Beautifully refined aromatics, with yellow plum and a hint of orange, delicate floral nuances well into the background. The palate is rich, honeyed and golden-hued, apricot and sweet, thick nectarine juice, but of course terrific balacing acidity, fat lemons and orange, and a long, sweet finish. 16.80€ direct from the winery.
(2016) A Riesling of Spätlese quality, made as a sparkling Sekt, this has a delightfully clean and fresh, leafy and herbal nose, and plenty of streaming, tiny bubbles. With 8g/l of dosage it is a properly dry Brut, tight, long and lemony, the crisp mousse giving it a pleasurable wave of flavour that rolls across the tongue to the finish.
(2016) It was a 10 year battle for Hartmut to have Auxerrois from the Nahe recognised as an official quality wine, and with this and the stunning late-harvest cuvée he stands totally vindicated. A lovely fresh herb and apple nose, just a touch of mid-palate peach sweetness, but then a really pithy, apple core and mineral dryness that gives this such a long, shimmering finish.
(2016) A special selection of the very best Riesling from the Löhrer Berg vineyards, Hartmut says its a great example of how to learn to work with nature: "Stay on the wave, not against it." Vinified with natural yeasts, as are all these certified biodynamic wines, it has a lovely suggestion of ripeness and richness, a touch of late-harvest exoticism (though only 3g/l of residual sugar), the juiciness of fesh cut apples and delightful length and acid focus.
(2016) From a Pinot Noir vineyard planted in 1992, Hartmut says he'll be truly happy once it reaches its 40th or 50th birthday. Absolutely lovely nose, filled with creamy berries and a sweet vanilla, touched lightly by earth and chalk. Tight, fine tannins, from skins rather than oak, light and vibrant, but plushness and so easy to drink too.
(2016) Though originally a Portuguese variety, today Portugeiser is a popular red wine grape in Germany and eastern Europe, and in this case, from a vineyard planted in the 1980s. Quite meaty, earthy and herbal, it then becomes much fresher and red-fruited, with raspberry freshness allied to a cracked river stone hint of minerality. Tannins are soft, and it's a highly quaffable and barbecue-friendly red.
(2016) Fabulous stuff, this old vine Auxerrois from Zwölberich pours a pale golden yellow colour and the aromas sing from the glass, ripe yellow apples, blossom, nougat and almond, so inviting. On the palate it is luscious and quite full, the sheerness and sweetness of the fruit is intense, nuttiness from some barrel ageing I suspect, and a long, pin-sharp finish with glittering acidity. Just a fabulous wine. For sale direct from Zwölberich at 29€ per bottle.
(2011) Little sign of any Botrytis richness here, no exotic fireworks but a controlled tangerine tang. A light, shimmering but not terribly complex wine.
(2006) A subtle, clove-like herbal quality at first, and dominant notes of minerality with wet stones and a delicately peppery quality. Fine, fine, limpidly clear and pure, honey-edged fruit. The palate is wonderfully delicate, with crisp, racy, very nimble acidity, a real core of minerality, and subtle, complex notes of floral and tropical fruit adding layers of complexity in the finish.