(2022) Available mid-May 2022, this is 100% cortese from the Araldica cooperative, aged four months on the lees. Very attractive nose combining something leafy and green, like soft wild herbs, with melon and a hint of Riesling-like waxiness. Plenty of crisp, lemony fruit and acidity on the palate, and that lees ageing adds some texture too for a useful lightweight white with a bit of substance.
(2022) Justerini & Brooks has worked with the Scavino family for thirty years, the company run today by sisters Enrica and Elisa Scavino. This is one of the 'modernist' estates of Barolo, using smaller French oak barriques in the cellar, but also concentrated on improving vineyard practises. Pale to medium soft ruby in colour, there's a delicately and exotically spiced plum compote character here, the Barolo 'tar and roses' description fits well, but elegant and discreet. In the mouth it is fresh and direct. Oak is very under-played, this being driven by a lean, firm fruit focus and pert acids, the grip of tannins adding to the slightly austere feeling of the wine.
(2022) From a vineyard that sits 290 metres above sea level and faces south to south-west on limestone soils. Aged for 18 months in large, old wooden cask. Beautiful perfume touching florals and kirsch, crisp tannins and acids, a fulsome creaminess and real fruit sweetness before a delicious, bitter herbal tang in the finish. Superb.
(2022) A Cru Barolo from this family estate, aged for over two years in large Slavonian oak casks. A firm, graphite and polished wood character here beneath taut, youthful black fruit, it is immediately concentrated and serious, but there's a floral, violet lift too in this young wine. The palate is equally polished and tight, the black fruit sinewy and dense, the very fine, authoritative  tannins and acid balance suggesting cellaring will see this blossom over a decade or more.
(2022) David Dudley-Jones describes this as "Barbaresco by any other name," coming from younger vines of the Crus Pora & Rio Sordo. Lovely pale to medium colour, but youthful, with a delicate nose of violets and old roses, something that reminds me strangely of candy floss, and then a nutty, chestnut note beneath. That complexity does continue on the palate, where really grippy young tannins and tart black cherry acidity frame succulent red plum and cherry, some leather and firm spices into a long finish, ending on fruit and acidity in lovely harmony.
(2022) Musso produces its Barbaresco from its 10 hectares of family vineyards. Pale to medium Ruby in colour, the nose has crushed red berries, like cranberries and redcurrants, with floral tones and a certain peppery quality. In the mouth a fine, mineral-etched, dry and savoury character, the hint of juicy red fruit sweetness swept up in orangey acidity, that pepper again, and firm tannins adding a bit of sinewy grip.
(2021) From the Araldica co-op, 100% Cortese fashioned in a brisk style, mountain-stream fresh with firm pear and some leafy dill aromatics, then a strict palate of apple and apple cores, lemon and just softened a touch in the finish with a little fruit sweetness persisting.
(2021) Described by La Scolca as the most tradtional of their Gavis. It is 100% Cortese from the high hills of Rovereto Superiore di Gavi, this is feather-light with 12% alcohol and delicate citrus, fresh-cut apple and some floral nuances. In the mouth it has a fine, juicy, mouth-watering core that is citrus again, but not aggressive, something more peachy comes in as the slightly saline acid fills the finish to give a little richness.
(2021) Made from vines that are 60 years old on average, and quite different from the white label, made with wild yeasts and with lees ageing. Distinctive,  slightly more wild and herbal aromas, pungent, smoky and flinty, lemon rind and peach stones. The palate has a a Chablis-like character, again that flint, ripe apple and lemon, a full texture and quite slippery, oily mouthfeel with excellent concentration, length, and a saline, mouthwatering finish.
(2020) What a fascinating wine, made only in the best years from a selection of the best grapes, this is aged for 10 years before release and is certainly the most expensive Gavi I have tasted by an order of magnitude. This has some skin maceration as well as wild yeast fermentation, the 10 years of ageing all on the lees, and all in small steel barrels, for a very unusual wine. The colour is light gold-green, and the nose has wonderful buttery mint notes, some Chablis-like flint and a crushed almond beneath. In the mouth there's a raft of cool, mouth-watering apple and lemon fruit, quite a rich texture, and that wet stone character. Long and poised it stays cool and precise and is an exceptional wine in many ways.