(2017) This is a single vineyard Gavi, from one of the region's real white wine experts. Beautifully clean and clear on the nose, there's a sherbetty touch to crisp and cool apple, just a suggestion of something mineral and salty. In the mouth there is great concentration here, but zero gravity: it flows freely across the palate, taut apple and lemons, medium-bodied, but super clean and fresh in the finish again, ozone fresh, finishing long as it tapers to a point. A seriously good, subtle, but decisive Gavi.
(2017) The oak influence on this wine is subtle, having spent one year in a combination of smaller and very large barrels. The colour is saturated, deep with a hint of blood red to ruby, and the nose vinous, crammed with cherries and hints of game and truffle, cedar and tobacco. In the mouth the plush sweetness of the fruit is the immediate attraction, but then the savoury, spicy and meaty character comes through too, smoky tobacco notes and typical plum and cherry skin tartness to freshen. A big mouthful of Barbera this, bold, intense and really well done.
(2014) I know to my cost that this 14.5% abv Nebbiolo from Piedmont is dangerously drinkable! I had intended to have one glass of this after a week's holiday in Spain drinking mostly rather heavier Rioja and Ribera del Duero reds, and the exuberant crunch and vitality of this youthful Nebbiolo was utterly disarming well into a third! A beautifully cherry-ripe, spicy nose leads on to a palate that is vinous and edged with bittersweet liquorice and clove to abundant black fruit. It's full but not at all heavy, and has good balance.
(2014) Along with Barolo, Barbaresco is the other 'great' Nebbiolo wine of Piedmont. This example is a blend from several vineyard plots in the Rizzi estate, which at 90 acres is one of the largest in Barbaresco. Fermented in stainless steel, it spends 12-15 months in 500-litre oak barrels before a final 12 months in concrete and steel tanks before bottling. There's a nicely pale, garnet colour, and quite lifted aromatics suggesting flowers, fresh green seeds and spices, and an elegant cherry fruit. It's not a lightweight wine with 14% alcohol, but the palate does not betray that too much. There is a little vanilla note, also a certain gravelly solidity, and whilst it may not be the most softly seductive of Nebbiolos, it has lovely character and balance.