Wine Region: Trentino

(2016) The alpine twin of Sassicaia, this is a Bordeaux blend from the far north of Italy, and an estate owned by Marchese Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga who spent time at Sassicaia and employed the same consultant to oversee this wine, winner of 13 consecutive 'Tre Bicchieri' awards from Gambero Rosso since its first vintage in 1982. At six years old it is still intense and youthful, a firm liquorice and bloody-edged keen black fruit on the nose. In the mouth the suppleness is impressive, with dry, fine but grippy tannins around a ripe fruit core. Balanced, with an elegant cherry freshness to the acidity, that does not detract from the seriousness and very Bordeaux-like combination of authoritative structure and yet hints of a charm that will unfold over 10 to 15 years.

(2011) 12%. From the north of Italy in the foothills of the Dolomites, there's a faint apple and dry, underripe melon character, but it is subtle. On the palate this has a nice medium-weight and a fine, juicy personality. It is dry and restrained, the fruit having some real ripeness and sweetness, but in that understated and food-friendly white fruit style, with fresh acidity.

(2006) >From Trentino, high in the foothills of the Dolomites close to the Austrian border, this is cool-climate Chardonnay, aged partly in barriques for four months. It has a beautiful sense of limpid freshness on the nose, with a little oatmeally quality, and a palate that combines lush, nectarine fruit with a dry, pithy citrus fruit acidity.

(2003) This emerald green-tinged wine has a bright, intense nose of ripe pear and apple, with a little creamy note of leesy barrel ageing. On the palate it has a rich mouthfeel, with quite a thick-textured mass of tropical fruit, ripe pear and a hint of melon. Acidity is soft but well-balanced, and it has reasonable length. Very good.

(2003) The 2000 vintage of this was a Wine of the Week back in 2001. It has a pale yellow/green colour, and a slightly floral, peachy-fruited nose with a faint echo of straw and honey. The mouthfeel is smooth and rich, with a stylish, limpid, pear fruit quality. Quite straightforward, with a slightly raw edge of nutty dryness. Very good.

(2003) This is the huge seller in the US market, which I specifically requested to taste. Pale green in colour, it is immediately sweeter, plumper and more commercially-styled, with pear-drop and flowers and a peachy note. On the palate it is quite fleshy and rich, with orchard fruit flavours and, although slightly sweeter in style, a nice cut of lemony acidity.

(2003) Beautifully light, honeyed nose with notes of dried fruits, saffron and tea-leaf, little hints of tropical fruit. On the palate more weight and fatness than the nose suggests, with apricot and fleshy nectarine fruit in a medium-bodied style, with undertones of unctuous toffee. Lovely balance and length, with a concentrated quality.

(2003) Quite a dense, slightly browning ruby colour. Big, sweet, vanilla-laden nose with berry fruit and a brown sugar quality. There's a little bit of horsy, sweaty character. Thick and sweet on the palate this avoids being jammy, with notes of herbs, leather and plum skins. It has a decent finish, if a touch cloying. 83/00.

(2003) Very dense purple/black colour. Quite Indian inky on the nose, with dried cherry fruit, herbs and a slightly medicinal note. There is good depth, with a blueberry character to the fruit. Quite smooth and full on the palate, this is dry and distinctive, with cherry and leathery, sinewy character and lip-smacking acidity. Well balanced.

(2003) Deep purple colour and bright, focused nose of vanilla-tinged berries with some chocolate and cherry notes. Bold, thick fruit on the palate, with lots of fine, savoury tannins and a chocolaty depth and softness. As a bit of a merlot sceptic, I found this to be delicious and well-made.