(2015) At a recent tasting I really enjoyed Domaine Wachau's cheaper Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2013, but this from the top 'Smaragd' level of alcohol and ripeness was much more intense, limey and I found it very Riesling-like in a way. It displayed more ripeness quite obviously, though it was arguably less vivacious and herbaceous than the Federspiel, but the palate confirmed that serious intensity with massive concentration of flavour, substance and a long, mineral-taut finish.
(2011) Lovely lifted, sherbetty brightness here, a touch of kerosene and lime. But there are floral notes too in a complex picture. Off-dry, there is great intensity to the fruit and beautiful balance.
(2009) Fantastically oily, viscose nose with peach kernel and ripe, fleshy stone fruits. Minerality comes through decisively on the palate, a big rush of something herbal and steely, with the weight and the flesh coming through equally powerfully. Long and explosive stuff and indestructible I'd have thought.
(2005) This Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) is a lovely dry wine from the Wachau, with only 12.5% alcohol, but plenty of character. The colour is a very pale gold, and the nose juicy and appealing, with lots of succulent, lightly-honeyed white fruits, and a clean, fresh appeal. On the palate it is packed with fat, juicy, bursting fruit suggesting both a white fruit (pear and peach) linearity, and broader, more tropical notes. There is good body and weight, and the sweet-toned impression from the natural fruit ripeness is braced by fine mineral acidity. This wine has good length.
(2005) Gelber Muskateller is a gold-skinned member of the Muskateller family of grapes, much prized in Austria. This very pale-coloured wine has a wonderfully exotic nose, filled with heavy floral scents and a real blast of perfumed mango and papaya fruit. On the palate, it is much drier than the nose suggests, with quite a pungent gooseberry-edged flavour and just hints of those exotic mango notes. The fruit is very good, focused mostly on pear and melon, with an edge of mineral acidity that dries the mouth in the well-balanced, quite long finish. This is a lovely wine, with plenty of interest and really good fruit on the palate.
(2005) I don't know that I've tasted a wine made from the Neuberger grape before, a cross of Silvaner and Weissburgunder. This comes from one of the prime sites of the Wachau, and it has a pale, buttercup yellow colour. The nose is very honeyed and limpid, suggesting richness and maturity. There's a gently leafy note and some peachy fruit. On the palate it is dry and composed of mostly non-fruit flavours, with suggestions of walnut and more honey, but also a rather pithy, slightly harsh acidity and dry, herbal finish. I liked this more on the nose than the palate I confess, but am quite prepared to believe it is a good example of the grape, and distinctive enough in its way. Good.
(2005) The Tausendeimerberg vineyard (meaning "thousand bucket hill") is a steep slope, terraced if the label illustration is anything to go by, on the banks of the Danube in the Wachau region. This is a cracking Riesling for those who like a bit of residual sugar in their wines, as it is almost made in a late-harvest style. The nose is pungent and vivid, with loads of floral and lychee fragrance underpinned by a sour apple and lime core. There's a toffeed note in there too, in a deep and dramatic profile. On the palate that intense burst of sweetness makes an early impression, though it is soon overtaken by racy mineral flavours, and then a ripe core of peach fruit. This is a touch disjointed at present (it was bottled only in November) and a the acidity in the finish rather bites into the length of the wine, but I confidently expect this characterful wine to be something quite special in another six months, and to cellar well for several years.