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(2017) Toro in northern Spain lies next to the more famous Ribera del Duero, the two regions often compared as both also make red wines from the same variety - Tempranillo - known locally as Tinta de Toro. This powerful example comes from a 100-year-old ungrafted vineyard, and was matured for 18 months in all-new barriques. It has a dense, saturated colour, and soulful nose crammed with tobacco, spice and vanilla, but also a deep pool of crushed black berry fruit. Small glimpses of game and cedar add some complexity. In the mouth it is fruitcake-rich with plenty more spice and fat, ripe, juicy blackcurrant fruit. Tannins are pretty grippy, which along with the concentration of the fruit and the alcohol (15%) makes it robust, chewy and serious. Its time in barrel and bottle has softened the edges, but I suspect it will evolve nicely over several years.
(2009) This has lovely blackberry aromas that are concentrated and sweetly focused, with a certain muscular, tightly-wound character. The very sweet, plush fruit floods the palate, layered with smoky, charry, vanillin oak. This is a big wine, with great concentration and at this stage a fairly burly, almost rustic grip from the tannins. Xavier is certain this ages to be more elegant, and their experiments from 1997 suggest this is so.
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