Raby Hunt Restaurant, Darlington

An invitation to Dinner with a friend whom I had not seen for some time. It happens to be his birthday so choosing the wines for the birthday or for the food proved a dilemma.We combined both.

I very rarely visit two star restaurants ( I’ve been to two ) as I have been underwhelmed in the past , preferring a more relaxed approach to food and corkage( this done well triumphs anything ) but it’s nice to experience a dip of the toe every now and again.
My first experience of dining at the chefs table too. I must say I was slightly nervous about this albeit in an exciting way.

There was so much to report and photographs to decipher,I have tried to condense it as best I can.The food pictures are for Richard Ward In his painstakingly,ever lasting search for food heaven.

ok, my task champagne ,white,red burgundy……..now this generally isn’t a problem until the host informs you of his wines for the evening….Lafite 1982,Latour 1982 and Coche Dury Mersault Les Rougots 2000.
well… that was easy for me as I would try find wines to compliment the food/menu.Adopting an approach to amplify the above and at times perhaps raise a spark or two?

1979 was the entry into this world.so,1979 Chambertin Clos De Beze From Damoy. Tattinger CDC 1979
further wines of Ramonet , Bollinger RD 1996 ( back up ) Raveneau Montee de tonnere 2004 , Didier Dagneneau Silex 2010, Prum WS spatlese 03

So…. Sitting at the chefs table commands a premium.I now fully understand why that is. Talking openly ( against the run of play with glass of Bollinger RD 1996 )how a restaurant works,understanding stars,how a taste works with this, the long inconvenient hours of success and the odd swear word.watching the teamwork building a Razor clam dish in front of you.

The first six courses were small canapé style dishes. The sushi,tempura langoustine and a amazing pastrami “ new york burger” were fantastic,intensely addictive flavours.

The above were served with wines chosen by the sommelier to match the menu. Highlights being the Silex piercing delicious and the Chablis,which we all thought was still developing.
Back to the Bolly.This was a hit ! as were slightly hesitant over the anticipated Oxidative style. Not so ,fresh biscuits,intense citrus,candid lemon backed up with a mature development.

Next up Bread. That was made and baked before us ( a brioche type )whilst we were engaged in the above. Warm and kicked off the main part of the meal.

ive never had Razor clams before but the quality of seafood in this part of the world ( a stones throw from Hartlepool ) is exceptional . Served with brown shrimps and sea herbs . The Halibut, meaty clean and in a rich sauce , both paired well with the white burgundies. Ramonet abit closed for business , The Mersault fully evolved,nutty and concentrated.

The 3 reds were a joy

The Chambertin with the pigeon more than held it’s own with neither over powering one another.The sweetness of the wine , bruised strawberries,luscious red fruits and a mature,savoury undertones, truffles super grip, finish was a little short but nonetheless super.

The opportunity to taste two of the greatest chateaux side by side (in a vintage such as 1982) within the restaurant is a special treat.

In isolation both wines were perfect but a forensic analysis found the Lafite all silky resolved without any fault.super continuous persistent length.deep red fruit flavours.faultless.Seamless depth of complex flavours.

The Latour was opulent and exotically rich,fire embers,graphite mixing with minerals and super concentrated.Can this wine be any better. I believe so… I think this wine is so very young and will become more complex given further time.

Well … there you have it … 4355AA2C-2D6E-4A7E-BA37-AE90A532A4E5.jpegD2CC45C0-A098-4FA4-BB58-DB4EFF75C997.jpeg9A181AC1-006C-4DC2-ABFD-FC8FD21440AB.jpeg
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We went to Raby Hunt for Mrs B’s birthday in August 2020 - our first meal out after being let out of the first (very severe) lockdown. We went at lunchtime, and not on the chef’s table. We thought it was superb and well worth its two stars, but rather expensive even by two-star standards. We had several of the same dishes as you did, Ian. Absolutely terrific food.

We duLy reported back to Richard Ward but I don’t think he’s yet made it there.
 
Where's the envy emoji o_O it looks and sounds absolutely fantastic Ian. Definitely on my list, we almost went about 18 months ago but chose Moor Hall instead (which turned out to be a lucky escape, as it happened to be the same day those rowdy Bradley folks were there).

Possibly one for my birthday in May - if I'm extra nice to Vicki...
 
Whether one wants to taste that Damoy Chambertin might be another matter, if that’s a fair representation of its colour :)
A fair observation Colin, but you will recall it is quite dark inside.Also I’m not the greatest at phone photography.
Most of the pictures are dark in detail and perhaps don’t do the subjects justice.
The wine was much more crimson and whilst faded a little towards the end ( note the empty bottle ) was in great condition.
 
Wonderful stuff Ian.

I'm still grateful for your generosity in providing me with a buy-in for the Leroy dinner (now years ago - how did that happen!) and hope to be able to reciprocate, in person, one day.

Joel
 
It would seem the forum has gone into gastronomy overdrive this weekend.Along with some staggering wines in various parts of the world.I can’t recall seeing such lovely food write ups and magnificent bottles in one weekend.

So back to the Raby Hunt for a special Lunch to celebrate lots of fun times collecting and sharing.

The food has been tweaked since my last visit. I must add, I was slightly underwhelmed back then but it was early days of a new team and a new menu.
Fridays visit on the other hand and I hope the pictures support my have taken the food to another level.It would seem the food was much more refined. Sauces were so perfect and flavours much more balanced.

The wines were simply staggering and all one could ever imagine they would be.

Of the reds , the 59 la mission had the edge for wine of the day. Eclipsing a faultless 61 which had a sweetness about it which seemed to linger and linger.The 89 Haut Brion is a wine in two camps ,many feel it is not ready and those that think it is . I am the former and look forward to allowing it more time to gain in bottle.

Of the whites they were all magnificent and whilst the Spanish pair battled well,they were overshadowed by the rest of the field. The Sancerre was so complex,clean and soaring rich and mineral.For me the Haut Brion Blanc 1985 was on point and edged the Coche by a nose. The BVB 99 from Leflaive was all the broadbent 6 stars but remained youthful and whistle clean ,also destined for a very long journey.

The Salon 1983 en magnum was incredibly balanced , appearance was faultless green gold , complex massive Chardonnay,dazzling flower complexities , it just got better and better over two hours.17FB73B0-7E7A-4912-8AA5-A98DEDA244AD.jpeg99A311E2-2F7C-4ED9-A5D3-38C85D081B54.jpegCD01749D-0424-4E3F-8614-D1191AA9CB9E.jpeg933AA1A5-E082-4440-8B1B-A1E7FAD6AEB8.jpeg9991AD4E-BB5E-422F-817C-D2D86B4CEA86.jpeg3158B1EC-A4D3-4343-9405-A8C58757C49F.jpeg64006B9A-78BF-4A13-A559-3566A235E6C5.jpeg306B7F0B-C388-4759-9EF2-D658D28C89B5.jpeg8134D142-D841-46CF-8A1D-D5683410C593.jpeg8F25BDB8-D900-4B74-817B-DF6B29F7D273.jpeg7D923EA1-C589-4C5B-86B4-CCE594B3D332.jpegBCEB9818-6C84-4B46-A219-FCC66F639628.jpegDA81A4BA-1844-4E5B-B96C-AE88B1CFEF72.jpeg165E4BB3-BCD5-4B6D-A026-803A7A74DBD5.jpeg
 
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