Stockist/Retailer: Handford

(2019) In the blend 60% comes from a 1992 Swartland vineyard, fermented in concrete, the rest from a 1982 Darling vineyard fermented in barrel. A nice coffee and cream note to the soft, spicy, lightly truffle character, the palate also soft in terms of the creamy berry fruit, but there’s a real firmness to tiny dry berries, but that spice, fine, tannins and a surge of clean lemony acidity. Lovely.

(2019) Durbanville, Stellenbosch and Swartland are the sources for this Chenin, with an average vineyard age 42. Old 500-litre barrels and wild yeasts for fermentation. Dry, lightly nutty and citrussy, the palate super dry with pithy dry acidity, lemon and buttery toffee,  but fresh citrus into a seamless, long finish.

(2019) Also made in the old Vaselin press, fully oxidised. Several picks through the vineyard on thick clay soils, with a bit of elevation. Whole bunches, no sulphur added during winemaking, and no malolactic. Wild yeast, and only around 5% of the 500-litre oak is new, plus around 7% made in amphora. Such a beautifully subtle, lightly kaolin and earthy character, that oatmeal touch to the orchard fruit, such lovely fragrance. The fruit so opulent and sweet on the palate, but the apple skin tang of the orange and lime.

(2019) Grown on shale in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. Only picked the south facing side of each vine for the cool fruit, leaving the rest for the farmer. No punch downs or temperature control. Seven months in old wood. Very pale colour, a very pure perfume here, a super light blackcurrant fruitiness, that pastille character comes from two thirds of the wine being made with carbonic maceration perhaps, the final third natural ferment. Cherry and blackcurrant pastille fruit, so pretty, sweet and light, just great acidity but tannins so chalky and fine, and everything so gentle.

(2019) From the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, made in an old Vaselin press with lots of oxygen, fermented in a foudre using wild yeasts. Gorgeous vanillin smoothness and oatmeal and crushed almond, a creamy apple fruit beneath, a touch of flint. The palate overflows with sweet, ripe nectarine, that superb juiciness and ripeness cut by a shimmering acidity into a long, layered finish.

(2018) One of my all-time favourite wines from Portugal, Mouchão in 2013 is a bit of a stunner. A blend of Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira, foot trodden, and made in a big, old oak vats, it always strikes me as a cross between Burgundy and the Rhône, with the perfume and soulful character of the former, and spice and juicy structure of the latter - while, of course, being entirely its own wine. A beautiful medley of ripe black berries, sweet earth, subtle spicing and floral touches leads on to a palate that is sumptuous and deep, yet light in both texture and its freshness: an alert, life-force of a wine, the tannins and juicy acids giving lots of attack and tension, and suggesting this will only improve with cellaring, but already giving great pleasure with its core of firm, savoury fruit.

(2016) A short maceration and fermentation in concrete tanks, followed by one year in barrel (10% new). It is 100% Listán negro and comes across as quite fruit-forward and concentrated - delicious, and seems fruitier and more dense than the 2013, though without the sense of Atlantic-influenced alertness. Drink: 2015-2020

(2016) From four specific plots, the 100% Listán Blanco in this 2013 release comes from 130-year-old vines. Superb nose, like a fine Meursault, so nutty and braced, those subtle complex flint notes again, but rounder and more generous. Superb body and a beautiful, limpid wine of shimmering elegance. Drink: 2015-2020

(2016) Made in concrete tanks with a short maceration, followed by one year in barrel. It is 95% Listán negro with some Listán blanco "and others," according to the winemaker. A hint of gamy character to this, something a little wild and exotic, that dry cherry extract on the palate gives it lovely energy and lift, the minerality and cool Atlantic influence obvious and delicious.

(2016) A composed and relatively discreet nose that's earthy and cool, but there's so clearly a flood of fruit waiting beneath, silky juicy and dark. The palate has a hugely sweet mid-palate flooded with that cherry plum and blackcurrant juiciness. The spices and fruit purity and the fruit tannins drive the finish.