(2012) The non-vintage standard cuvées of Champagne giant Moët and Chandon haven't always excited, but Tom Stevenson is just one authority who sees improvements there and certainly this 2004 is singing. The pale colour of the 38% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir and 29% Pinot Meunier is very delicate, in a wine given extra ageing by cellar boss Benoît Gouez. The mousse is extremely fine too and the delicate aromas of hazelnut and digestive biscuit, with elegant floral and peachy fruit notes. There is more delicacy on the palate, where the low dosage of just 5g/l allows a certain pithy, crisp and tangy citrus and mineral quality, but not without charm and suppleness on the mid-palate too. A delicious Champagne. £40, Tesco