(2014) The name of 'Cream Sherry' has been greatly devalued thanks to a lot of cheap and sometimes not so cheerful bottles bearing the name, but when this style of Sherry is good, it can be utterly delicious. This example from the excellent house of Emilio Lustau is made from 75% Palomino that has been through the Solera system, before 25% of Pedro Ximénez, dried on mats, is blended in. With 110g/l of residual sugar it has an attractively sweet vanilla and chocolate nose, toasty and orangy, with a beguiling warmth. So chocolaty and rich on the palate, yet it has delicious tang and freshness without the engine oil thickness of a straight PX. It is gorgeous, nutty and enveloping.