While the number of hectares under vine in Uruguay has fallen in recent years to just under 6,000, it remains the fourth largest producer in South America with around 150 wineries. 95% of that area is farmed for wine production, and since the new millennium quality levels have risen. That’s thanks in part to some major investment from overseas: one of Uruguay’s top wineries, Bodega Garzón was founded only in 2008 and is owned by Argentinian billionaire, Alejandro Bulgheroni. His investment was one of the biggest in any Latin American winery this century and Garzon along with a host of other make Uruguay a desirable destination for wine tourism.
Natural Wine Country
Uruguay enjoys a number of advantages in its quest to become an ever more serious player in the world of wine. In addition to the most stable economy on the continent, it has the highest GDP of any South American country, notwithstanding a small population of 3.4 million. A mostly maritime climate brings cooling winds and a wide diurnal range. With the resulting acid retention, freshness is a hallmark of its wines as is generally modest alcohol levels. Tannat forms more than a quarter of all plantings, with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc also popular. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are the most common white varietals, although Albarino is being widely planted with very good results. Also common are Marselan, Ugni Blanc, and Moscatel de Hamburgo.
All vineyards are grafted onto American rootstock for, unlike Chile, phylloxera afflicted the eastern side of the continent including Uruguay. Pictured is the Las Espinas vineyard of Bodegas Bouza in the Oceanic region.
Lie of the Land
There are six different wine-producing regions with distinct characteristics: Metropolitan, accounts for over 75% of all plantings, and includes the celebrated department (or appellation) of Canelones, as well as Montevideo and San José. The others are Oceanic (Maldonado and Rocha departments); Central (Durazno, Florida and Lavalleja); Northern (Rivera and Tuacarembo); Northern Riverside (Artigas, Salto and Paysandu) and Southern Riverside (Colonia, Río Negro & Soriano). Soil diversity is marked with as many as 99 classified types according to leading Uruguayan geologist, Alfredo Silva. The climate is heavily influenced by the Atlantic, and is not dissimilar to that of Bordeaux and Galicia, with plentiful rainfall. Irrigation is rarely needed.
The producers
BODEGA GARZON
This huge property of 1,300 hectares in Maldonado has 250 under vine, with a remarkable 1200 plots, all of which are vinified separately with none being bigger than 0.8h. Tannat makes up as much as 72h, with Albariño the next most planted with 40h. Other red varietals include Marselan (23h), Cabernet Franc (20h), Merlot (17h), Petit Verdot (11h) and Pinot Noir (9h).
Being only 18km from the Atlantic, it was no surprise when winemaker Germán Bruzzone (pictured) told me that ‘winds here are our fingerprint,’ adding that cool southerlies or southeasterlies blow most days from 9am till 6pm. Rocky soils, mainly decomposed granite and sand, drain so well that drip irrigation from nine lakes on the estate is needed. The estate’s other great strength is its biodiversity, with a proliferation of wild animals and wide range of flora, fauna and trees.
CERRO CHAPEU
What makes Cerro Chapeu different to other top producers is its location in the far north of the country on the border with Brazil’s Rivera department. Indeed, in addition to its 38 hectares of vines in Uruguay, the winery has four hectares on the Brazilian side of the border, freedom of movement across it being as easy as it is in Ireland.
Francisco Carrau, whose family are the owners, is one of Uruguay’s most respected winemakers. “I believe Rivera can make great Tannat for several reasons,” he told me. “Tannins and seeds ripen much quicker than in Canelones thanks to our sandier soils. Our more continental climate and higher altitude of 270 metres mean we have a wider thermal amplitude, which preserves the aromas and colour of grapes.” Carrau has also planted seven different clones of Tannat as well as the only Saperavi in Uruguay.
PISANO FAMILY VINEYARDS
One of Uruguay’s oldest wineries, founded in 1924 by the grandfather of the three Pisano brothers who own it – Daniel (export manager), Gustavo (winemaker) and Eduardo (viticulturist). Situated in Canelones, the estate has 30 hectares under vine on terroir in the Progreso Region with outstanding Tannat, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Torrontes and Albariño. “We can produce an Albariño half-way between the Old and New World,” Daniel declares. “Now in Uruguay, if you don’t have Albariño, you are second-class.”