(2024) It's fair to say that Colombard is not the world's sexiest grape. A staple of Armagnac and Cognac production, but rarely seen as 'fine wine', Ian found a 1983 vineyard planted on sand, in the far north of coastal Swartland and has treated it with the care afforded all of his wines. It opens with a delightful peach and Ogen melon suggestion of fruitiness, even hints at lychee and mango, but there's a leesy element and layer of saline that keeps that in check. The palate has real texture given the 11% alcohol, an orange undertow of acidity supporting those creamier, fruity characters. Delightful.
(2024) This gossamer-light, 12.5% alcohol Cinsault comes from a 1968 vineyard in Darling. It is a superb example of balanced, delicate wine-making but never at the expense of aroma, flavour or complexity. Pale garnet edging toward tawny in colour, it is so aromatic: florals are the top notes, violet, old rose, almost patchouli-like for a fleeting moment, then a core of crushed mineral salts, cherry and rose-hip and a fine dusting of cedar aided by 12 months in older oak complete the compelling picture. The palate is dry and savoury, all of that aromatic lift translating to fresh, mouth-watering lightness on the palate where the red fruits mix with stony, mineral characters from the acidity and very fine, lightly sandy tannins. The finish is long, with a little spice and truffle character, in a fabulous wine that might well cellar in the style of a serious red Burgundy.
(2024) Ian Naude named this wine after his grandfather and references Cape wines of the 50s and 60s as its inspiration, 82% Cinsault being blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and a little Cabernet Franc. Having been lucky enough to taste such old wines, largely thanks to Michael Fridjohn, I get it immediately. Fruit comes from a 1968 vineyard in Darling and it is aged in older French oak barrels. It's a dry, cranberry, herb and rose-hip scented wine of light colour and low alcohol. And yet the palate has such intense, inherent sweetness of cranberry and redcurrant, with some of the tartness of those berries and a background of warming clove spice. I have absolutely no doubt that this ultimately delicious wine will age well for decades.
(2024) From West Coast vineyards way up in the north of Swartland, Chenin Blanc is 83% of the blend along with Colombard. It does not see oak, but was left on the lees "for as long as possible," according to Ian. The nose has a mealy, slightly almondy character, balanced against delicate lime and blossom and a hint of leafy dill. In the mouth it is fresh and saline, again lime and crunchy yellow apple, hinting at fuller peach but always stopping just short of anything too obvious. Long, focused, the natural feel of the wine yielding to fresh acidity in the finish, even a hint of delicate spice.
(2019) The site for this fruit in Darling is not that far from Swartland, but has much more Atlantic influence according to Alex Milner. Aged in concrete eggs, it has a similarly pale colour to the Swartland bottling, raspberry and smokiness, ripe and lithe, a little more weight and texture here, but so lithe and fresh - and equally delicious.
(2019) Pronounced 'Natty Falay' according to winemaker Alex, this 12.5% Pinot comes from dryland bush vines planted in 1986. Aged in 2500-litre foudres. Bright and delicate colour. Delightful coffee-touched nose, a beautiful natural sense of concentration to the rounded fruit. The palate has a lovely leafiness to the cherry fruit. Long and delicious.
(2011) Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Tannat. Light, vibrant cherry colour. Creamy strawberry nose, with a pleasing redcurrant dryness on the mid-palate, and then a trace of sweetness comes through. Easy drinking and enjoyable.