Cloudy Bay’s Sauvignon Blanc was nothing short of a sensation in the 1980s and 1990s. Established in the Marlborough region of New Zealand in 1985 by David Hohnen, early vintages met with universal acclaim. Many critics cited it as one of the world’s best example of Sauvignon Blanc. It was certainly a very different interpretation from the wines made in the variety’s European homes of the Loire Valley and Bordeaux; aromatics, flavour and personality were dialled-up to 11. The wine stood out dramatically in any line-up.
That attention led to Cloudy Bay acquiring legendary status. I clearly remember Oddbins would sell you only one bottle, but on the condition that you bought 11 more bottles of New Zealand wine from their portfolio. By 2003, luxury goods giant LVMH, owners of Krug and Dom Perignon among others, had acquired the business.
There followed a time of expansion, though LVMH have always been coy about the numbers. Availability increased, while at the same time other Marlborough Sauvignons from producers like Dog Point and Greywacke stole some limelight. Today there’s no need to buy a case of assorted wines just to get your hands on a bottle of Cloudy Bay: Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Majestic and many more retailers will happily sell you a bottle, though the wine has maintained its premium pricing, going for a tasty £25 per bottle.
Under LVMH’s ownership the Cloudy Bay story has also broadened. As well as a Chardonnay, they now make a barrel-influenced Sauvignon Blanc (Te Koko), Pinots Noir from both Marlborough and Central Otago, and sparkling wines under the Pelorus label.
All of these are relatively easy to buy in UK retail. I recently had the opportunity to taste a trio of the latest vintages on the shelves and one thing is undeniable: tall poppies they may be, but the quality of the wines under this brand has stayed consistently high.
The Wines
Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc 2024
Marlborough, New Zealand, Dry White, Screwcap, 13.5% abv
The 40th vintage of Cloudy Bay's iconic Sauvignon Blanc is a really good one. It remains a first class example of the style it, arguably, created. From a vintage of below average yield due to Spring frost followed by drought, just 1.5% of the blend was fermented in large oak barrels, the rest in stainless steel. Part of the ferment was with wild yeasts. It burst with grapefruit and peach on the nose. A background hint of elderflower and green bean is a signature of this wine, but appearing here in a relatively restrained form as fruit is very much to the fore. Full-textured and full-flavoured on the palate, it is a wine that bursts with juiciness and exuberance. You'd be crazy to pay the supposed RRP of £32, but it's not hard to find in many independent retailers or on a deal at larger players for around £21.00. Still quite expensive, but it is also very good indeed.