‘PiWi?’ It is a more pronounceable short-form of the German term ‘Pilzwiderstandsfähige,’ literally translating as ‘fungus-resistant.’ PiWi grape varieties have been bred to have a high resistance to fungal diseases, enabling a significant reduction in the use of pesticides. The vines are not genetically modified. Instead, they are hybrid crosses of Vitis vinifera varieties (the European wine grape) with non-vinifera varieties, that have proved to be resistant.
PiWi vines do not need the constant application of fungicide and pesticide sprays that are the norm in much viticulture.
That in itself is good for the environment, but it also cuts down the requirement for the chemical companies to manufacture the treatments and for tractors to spray them. The aim is to create new varieties that provide options for a future when environmental concerns grow, and the climate changes.
In essence, PiWi varieties offer higher yields along with lower input costs for the grower, but quality has not been forgotten. The new breed are said to retain acidity better than aromatic varieties, like Riesling or Gewurztraminer for example, that have been shown to be losing some acidity as the climate warms. Crucuially, the belief is that the PiWi varieties can retain the aromatic and profile character of their Vitis vinifera parents.
I believe the search is on to find a more consumer-friendly term than ‘PiWi’ to help in marketing these wines. Not all of the new grape names are obvious, but the naming convention of some varieties should give consumers a clue about what to expect in their glass: Sauvignac, for example, is based on Sauvignon Blanc, Muscaris is based on Muscat, and the more prosaic Riesling Resistente speaks for itself.
Many people are excited about these new varieties and I have read suggestions that the breeding nurseries are struggling to meet demand. Cool climate areas like England would be a target market, where our often cool and damp weather means spraying regularly with fungicides is just a fact of life. They are also touted as making an excellent base for sparkling wines, with lower sugar and increased acidity.
I recently had the chance to taste three organic-certified PiWi wines thanks to their importer, Vintage Roots. They come from French producer La Colombette, who says, “What a pleasure it is to be able to cultivate the vines with just sun and rainwater.”