(2022) From vines planted in 1968 on sandy loam soils, this was fermented in a combination of steel and French oak barriques. It was aged nine months in barriques, 20% new, with minimal lees stirring. A glint of green to the colour here, and a fine, subtley nutty nose, something gastronomic, almost like a fruity olive oil, and ripe pear and melon fruit. The palate has a terrifically sparky line of acidity that is juicy, citrus-fresh and yet sweetly rounded too. The fruit has plenty of mandarin orange brightness, lovely succulence and texture, but a beautifully focused, smile-inducing and approachable style.
(2022) A wine I scored 95/100 when tasted 18 months ago, this was fermented in new French oak barriques with regular lees stirring, followed by 11 months in barrel. It comes from the original 1970s plantings, on gravel over clay soils. It's a riper, bigger style that nods towards the golden Chardonnay era but pulls up way, way short: there's a hint of minty character, but a balancing whisper of flint, and a more tropical fruit quality. Super ripe and sweet fruit on the palate, nectarine and a fat, juicy lemon, an underpinning of nutty oak, but again the acidity streaks through in a classic Old World/New World fusion style.
(2022) The 2021 Whispering Angel blends Grenache, Cinsault, Rolle, Syrah and Tibouren. It's always an extremely refined rosé, but this vintage seems to add an extra ounce of firmness and savoury, food-friendly character. It is aromatic, with pomegranate and fine raspberry and floral aspects, but an intriguing mineral salts nuance too. In the mouth it has that delicious freshness, quite vivacious with tart red berries and zippy citrus and, again, a stony, lightly salty and mineral finish. Watch the video for more information.
(2020) A blend of 65% Viognier with Chardonnay, the local Obeidi and a touch of Muscat, this is a crisp and fresh rather than overtly aromatic white. Stone fruits and a touch of more exotic lychee lead on to a palate that is smooth and elegantly framed, the zippy acidity and richness of texture meaning the dry, but fruity flavours don't show a strong Viognier character it's true, but it is clean and cool, with good balance.
(2020) From Louis Latour's Provence outpost, these vineyards at 500-metres are on sandy, clay-limestone. There's a pale to medium ruby colour, and an attractive nose of red cherries, a touch of rapberry, and a softer sheen of polished wood and sweet earth. In the mouth this has good fruit, again its that pulpy red berry fruit, soft tannins and an easy-acidity that gives this lots of drinkability. An elegant and fruity Pinot with a supple smoothness. A roast turkey banker for me.
(2020) This is the rosé to buy if you are a fan of Sauvignon Blanc, because it is a particularly vivacious example, showing some of the passion fruit and elderflower pungency of a Savvy, the early picking of the grapes (this has only 12.5% alcohol) and I am guessing some Sauvignon Blanc yeasts giving that vivacious personality. Juicy on the palate with red berry fruit and sour orange and grapefruit blast of acidity, it is a dry, striking and very singular expression of rosé, and enjoyable to boot.
(2019) A blend of 86% Sauvignon with Semillon, named after the owner. A nicely restrained nose, the elegance of the understated Sauvignon character with 1/3 new oak, 1/3 second fill oak, 1/3 Noblot cement tank. There’s an interesting herbal - but not herbaceous character here - beautifully textured and concentrated, a yellow plum fleshiness and lots of lime rind texture and weight. A mouth filling wine, but lovely acidity. Note price and stockist at time of review are for an earlier vintage.
(2019) Made very simply - "crush, press, ferment," says Murray, then aged on lees for three months. Gooseberry and a touch of flint and elderflower, an attractive green-tinged fruit profile. The palate has a light smoke and earthy quality, good texture, lots of crunchy apple and pear, streaking lemon acid is a really nice style.
(2017) An assemblage with some wine vinified as red Pinot Noir in the blend, the overall Pinot Noir content is around 60%-75%. There's a delightful swirl of smokiness to this, lots of small redcurrant fruit that is dry and concentrated, but it is sweet too as it strikes the palate, lovely delineation, the fruit driving it against a quite creamy mousse, and a long and balanced finish.
(2017) A surprisingly high, almost marzipan-like note to this, a touch of elderflower and lightly tropical fruit character is quite arresting. The palate has a Brazil nut roundness, open and charming, easy to appreciate, but it does finish with exemplary freshness.
