(2025) Partially barrel-fermented in French oak, Cherubino say that Laissez Faire reflects a hands-off approach to winemaking. A very attractive nose here, showing more than a hint of paraffin/wax character, but abundant crisp apple and lime fruit too. Any oak influence is very subtle, pehaps a touch of creamy almond in the background. The palate is bone-dry with a searing core of acidity that gives a mouth-watering, slightly saline finish in a wine with very good texture and length. Though labelled as Great Southern, the fruit in this vintage was specifically from Frankland River I believe.
(2025) From the dry-farmed Alta Vista vineyard, planted in 1972. Far Mountain say the natural contours of this hillside planting give many different expositions, and that such old, bush vines may well have created some mutations, or perhaps there is some Cabernet Franc co-planted. This was matured in French oak, 27% new barrels. It has a deep and saturated crimson/violet colour, and classic cassis and deep plummy aromas fringed by cedar and tobacco. There's a little glimpse of black olive too. Classic stuff on the palate, that juicy black fruit but a firm Sandalwood and spice background. Tannins are really quite grippy, which work with firm acidity to give the finish structure.
(2025) The bulk of the fruit comes from a dry-farmed vineyard at the highest point on Bald Mountain, planted on volcanic soil. The wine was aged in French oak. Lightly candied but clear on the nose, the fruit dominates, but a subtle stone fruit and citrus character rather than anything tropical. There's a little ozoney hint of saltiness. In the mouth it is juicy, fleet-footed style. Only 30% goes through malolactic fermentation.The fruit is racy and tart, the creamy almond oak just fills out toward the finish, but this has some phenolic heft too, giving it some grip into a nicely balanced, clear and acid-driven finish.
(2025) The range-topping 'Collector' is a blend of Grenache and Cinsault from the estate's best vineyard parcels. Free-run juice is fermented in stainless steel tanks and given several months ageing on the lees. There's certainly a creaminess on the nose from that, along with quite intense, small red berry fruit. There's a hint of spice and a hint of something like Parma violet. In the mouth the 14% alcohol gives a robustness, combining with acidity to give quite serious grip despite the fruit being so delicately handled at fermentation. Long, savoury and spicy.
(2024) The Sichel family are synonymous with Bordeaux, and especially with Margaux where they own various properties at classed growth and cru bourgeois level. The source of this declassified wine is not revealed, but the blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot is said to come from one of the appellations most famous addresses. Beautiful nose, touched by violet and black cherry, but more about cedar and plush blackcurrant. The palate has a silky texture, the fruit supple and composed, but filling the mouth. Tannins are quite powerful and spicy here, as is the plum-skin edge of acidity, suggesting this should cellar for a few years too.
(2024) I'm a big fan of the Cru wines from this Beaujolais estate, this made from 60-year-old vines and seeing partial barrel aging, 30% spending 18 months in oak. It's a serious but still delicious rendition of Moulin-à-Vent, deep in colour with soaring aromatics of kirsch and violet, so charming and yet with real depth, gravel and light smokiness as well and firm damson fruit beneath. In the mouth it is a beautifully concentrated and balanced, with a gloss to the fruit and the polished oak treatment, but a vivid stripe of tannin and acid giving real vinosity. Pure and long, it's a terrific wine. Note that it can be had for as little as £21.00 if buying by the six bottle case. Use the wine-searcher link.
