(2025) The colour here darkest of all, into nutty brown tones with a hint of ruby. Here, fruitiness is subsumed under spice and cedar, dried fruits, nuts and some sous-bois character. A more comtemplative style, the palate is easily the glycerine richest of the range, slippery in texture and unctuous, with coffee and caramel underpinning and warming the whole fireside picture, though a sweet depth of fruits, dried and mellow, joins excellent acidity. A distinctive style.
(2025) A similar chestnut colour to the Verdelho, there is a lovely figgy richness to this, and underpinning of mocha coffee and the expected nutty tones. But that fruit quality - fig and quince - is evident. Sweet on the palate, but not tasting dramatically moreso than the Verdelho for me, due to the fine acid core and the taut nature of this wine, smooth and elegant into the finish.
(2025) A little deeper and more chestnut in colour compared to the Sercial, this doesn't quite have that wine's aromatic fireworks, more subdued and nutty, with a deep sheen of polished wood. In the mouth it is noticeably sweeter and has a ripe feeling to the fruit, which is more forward than in the Sercial, more unctuous, with classically fine citrus acidity slicing through the finish.
(2025) Pouring a realtively pale tobacco brown colour, this has a delightful nose of citrus - Seville orange mostly - with nuttiness and that bready, yeasty lift that is so appealling. In the mouth it is definitely not 'dry dry', but the unctuous flavours that run from butterscotch to rich coffee have a depth of sweetness that is then cut by a sweep of acidity that certainly freshens and cleanses the finish. The warming nutty tones are there of course, but a delightful, balanced and long wine that's certainly on the dry side.
(2022) A 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, aged a minimum of five years before disgorgement. This has a brioche richness and, although Extra Brut with a dosage of less than 3g/l of sugar, it has a sweet-fruited charm on the palate and is fruit-forward, hinting almost at a tropical character on the nose. That little toasty, nutty impression lingers through the finish, but again the glacé lemon precision of the acidity balances. Approachable in style.
(2021) Cereza is the variety here, coming from a vineyard planted in 1940 on sandy soils, farmed organically and fermented in concrete 'eggs' with natural yeasts. Unusually for a red wine, it does not go through malolactic fermentation. The grape skins are also removed part-way through fermentation to give a very pale, deep rosé colour as much as red, offering herbal and underripe cherry aromas, subtle and earhty, a light undergrowth character too. In the mouth it has that higher acid style that reminds me of some red Vinho Verde made from Vinhao, though mid-palate sweetness of fruit emerges, cherryish again, with a very light finish of negligible tannin and fresh, juicy acidity. Very unusual, and for me very enjoyable if approached with an open mind. Watch the video for more information and use the wine-searcher link for lots of other independent stockists.
Beautiful colour, a burnished hint of gold to the straw yellow, masses of streaming, miniscule bubbles. Absolutely beguiling nose, with the subtle oxidative notes from the 12 years on lees, some toast and custard, but fresh orchard fruits, little greengage and yellow plum notes, and really very multi-layered. The wine tightens up considerably on the palate, immediately citrussy and bright, but with a supple, smooth and rounded texture. There is a definite lick of salty minerals in the finish, further tensioning the picture. Really very lovely, intriguing balance between the open, matured flavours and youthful zest and energy. Odilon thinks it will age extremely well, because of that long contact with the lees. 12,000 bottles produced.
(2019) Famously the oldest house in Champagne, founded in 1584, Gosset is a small, premium house and their Grande Reserve spends a full four years on the lees - way beyond the legal requirement. A blend of 46% Chardonnay, 39% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier the blend has 12% of reserve wines from previous vintages. It's a fruity, bright and vinous style, miniscule bubbles leading on to a creamy mousse and flavours of spiced orange and fig. Some biscuity, toasty and smoky notes develop, but it maintains its fresh, zesty and cool elegance into a long finish.
(2019) As is traditional, the Malmsey is the sweetest in this 10-year-old range, with 125gl of sugar. Again into walnut and shellac tones over the Christmas cake fruit. So intense on the palate, but that thrilling balance with the searing acidity shimmering through.
(2019) Lovely waxy, lemon rind quality, lanolin and hints of butteriness in this cool Elgin Semillon. There is a creamy smokiness too in the background from some French oak. Packed with orange and orange blossom notes, that sheer and dry lemony acidity drives this lovely wine.
