(2025) An unusual blend, I guess modeled on Côte-Rôtie, where instead of Viognier the local white variety, Riesling is blended with 95% Shiraz. The Shiraz was whole bunch fermented, with stalks, on top of Riesling skins for 11 days. Maturation followed in older French oak barriques, where the wine completed fermentation and stayed for 18 months. It's always easy to imagine you are smelling or tasting the influence of a small varietal addition in a wine, but this is certainly aromatic, a kirsch-like lift and floral touch to creamy black fruit. Dense on the palate with supple dark fruit running into cocoa, but that little hint of something exotic is there into a long, refined finish with moderate tannins and juicy acidity. Watch the video for more information.
(2025) Viognier is a variety that is naturally high in sugar and low in acidity, so some examples can weigh in with 14.5% or 15% alcohol, sweetness, but without the necessary acid to balance. Because of that many producers now pick the grapes early and make a drier, lighter, lower-alcohol style with more acidity. Unfortunately for me that's sometimes at the expense of true Viognier character - what made it so appealing in the first place. Cline are bucking that trend with a hedonistic, 14.5% blockbuster that overflows with honeysuckle, apricot and spice in a luscious aromatic. On the palate it has richness, a little sweetness, but great fruit density and texture. A big mouthful for sure but, crucially, it is balanced. Maybe not for everyone, but I really enjoyed this example of unabashed Viognier at its most unapologetic. Watch the video for more information.
(2025) This is a Californian cab in a pretty much 'fruit bomb' style, overflowing with cassis, plum and chocolate aromas and flavours. The fruit comes from Lodi, inland from the much more expensive Napa Valley area, and the wine is aged in American oak. I note that it does have a moderate 13.5% alcohol, though the richness might suggest higher, and while it might not suit the Claret-loving classicist, it offers great bangs per buck and put a smile on my face. Note that Allaboutwine has a very keen price just under £10, but only by the six-bottle case. Many independent merchants sell it by the bottle for around £11. Watch the video for more information.
(2024) It may come as a surprise to learn that Germany is now the world's third biggest producer of Pinot Noir, aka Spätburgunder, the variety now accounting for around 12% of Germany's vineyard area. This from the cousins Hanewald-Schwerdt is made from 30-year-old vines grown on their patch of limestone soil. Fermented with natural yeasts in large oak casks, it then spends time in smaller barriques, 20% of which are new. Medium garnet in colour, this has beautiful fragrance, with red berries and a juicy, ripe cherry, also a little floral lift. But there are all sorts of nuances, with some truffle and smokiness, briary, autumnal characters developing. In the mouth quite substantial and meaty, delivering a spicy but still pure, red fruited glass of Pinot of excellent character for its modest price. The finish is smoothed by a little vanilla, ripe tannin and a juicy orange acidity. Watch the video for more information.
(2024) In the funky wine spectrum for sure, this non-vintage wine is 82% Chenin Blanc and 18% Grenache Blanc, 60% from the 2022 vintage, the rest from components going back to 2016. Some portions saw skin-contact, others were deliberatly maderised or aged under flor. Lemony in colour, the nose has butter and lanolin notes, considerable complexity with ripe golden delicious apples and subtle nuttiness too. On the palate a richness to the texture, fat lemony fruit and a delightful balance between fruit ripeness and sheer, sherbet lemon acidity. A lovely, dry, gastronomic finish.
(2024) From Teliani's Winery 97, fruit is hand-harvested in the Kakheti region. 50,000 bottles were produced. A very vibrant purple wine, the nose is sappy and fresh, reminding me of both Beaujolais and Mencia perhaps. Cherry and briar come through. In the mouth that sense of freshness and sappy, juicy character continues, the wine having that dry and lightly herbal character, but with good texture, freshness and a bit of endive or liquorice bite.
(2023) Once known as 'Fiano Minutolo' when the grape was mistakenly identified as Fiano (the famous grape from neighbouring Campania), this Puglian variety of unknown origin is much more aromatic. There's a slightly pinkish tinge to the colour . On the nose, lots of floral and peach down prettiness, chamomile and a lemon balm fragrance. Despite having only 12.5% alcohol, there is body and texture in the mouth, and while the peach ripeness of the fruit is delicious on the mid palate, a freshening zip of citrus and touch of salty, herby savouriness gives lovely balance. Watch the video for more information.
(2023) Barrels of flor-affected wine are used as a starter culture, then blended into larger quantities of Sauvignon Blanc. Lovely glowing yellow/lime. Soft and creamy, with with a vibrant lemon and orange tang, with a very keen edge and touches of spangle brightness. Broad in texture with such bright fruit, this was arguably my favourite wine of the tasting.
(2023) This is a 1978 planting of the rare Barbarossa, of which only a few hectares exist in the world. With eight months maturation, it's a blend of partially dried and fresh grapes, in an Amarone style. Intriguing nose, chestnut and gentle beetroots earthiness, creamy fruit, but brambles and subtle juiciness. There is great juiciness on the palate, ripe black berries and sweetness really pushes through. Good balancing acidity again.
(2023) The term 'Col Fondo', meaning 'with sediment', indicates the unusual style of this Prosecco, which is not disgorged and pours a cloudy off-white thanks to the yeast still in suspension (invert the bottle a couple of times before opening). It comes from the higher quality DOCG area of Asolo and is organic certified. The other very unusual aspect is that it was fermented with indigenous yeasts and has zero dosage, both far from the Prosecco norm. Bottled somewhere between frizzante and spumante, it fizzes gently and offers lemon and light bready aromas, some floral aspects. In the mouth it is bone dry and so refreshing, more crunchy, underripe apple and lemon, and totally enjoyable as it races across the tongue to a dry but balanced finish. Watch the video for more information.