(2023) The first of three Pinots comes from pebble-strewn limestone soils at 300 metres, the vineyard 20 years old. It was matured in older barrels. Though rules have changed since, in 2020 Pinot Noir could be planted in Grand Cru vineyards but could not be labelled as Grand Cru, so many producers use the initial letter as a code to reveal the source of the grapes (in this case Vorbourg). Medium density in colour, the aromatics are elegant, floral over red-fruit, cherry and herbs to the fore, a little high-toned nuance. In the mouth it is dry and has a fairly tannic, spicy backbone, but hints of bittersweetness, something almost minty too, give plenty of interest. The finish is bone dry, fresh and quite long.
(2022) The vines are 35 years old, and vinification in all stainless steel includes 12 months on the lees. It's a Vaillons in a more rounded, succulent and giving style, yeasty, with yellow apple and small floral nuances on the nose. In the mouth it has a lively sense of finesse and composure: nothing is aggressive here, and yet nothing is muted or flabby; it's a perfectly moreish and satisfying Chablis with weight and texture, but enough bright acid balance too.
(2022) I'm a huge fan of Chablis, if push came to shove, it would arguably be my favourite Chardonnay region among many. I couldn't help feeling a little underwhelmed by this offering from Simonnet-Febvre. It's not that I don't appreciate the cool restraint and crisp, clarity of the wine, it's just that it's combination of medium-ripe apple fruit and citrus really doesn't sing of the Fourchaume terroir.
(2020) Lots of zip and appealing brightness to this, a bit of lipsticky lift and bright red summer fruits: rosehips, strawberry and watermelon. In the mouth a nicely balanced wine, with that pulpy fresh red fruit tanginess persisting, a nice core of lemony acidity and pleasing dry, textured finish.
(2019) A blend of 37% Pinotage, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon plus Merlot and Cabernet Franc that spends 12 months in older oak. Nice solid black fruit character, a bright cherry edge and a touch of Pinotage perfume. Quite jammy and ripe, a thick fruit character, well balanced.
(2016) Fragrant with some floral and cherry, rose like tiny nuances and solid berry fruit beneath. The palate has a stripe of liquorice that is bittersweet and grippy, with a tight endive touch. Tight, very powerful and concentrated, perhaps a little too much in this vintage, but there is elegance.
(2016) Flint and intense complex notes, a bit of wood evident, but plenty of ripeness. The palate has cool orchard fruits, a lime-like intensity, and a decisive acidity in the finish. Juicy and concentrated.
(2016) Such a ripe, peach and almost mango like fragrance here, the vintage character perhaps, but lots of exotic ripeness amongst those lightly honeyed notes. On the palate too it is still light to medium bodied but has a sense of luscious ripeness over the orangey acidity of the finish. Long.
