(2020) Vaillons is often one of my favourite Premier Crus of Chablis, this coming from just two parcels of vines on the famous Kimmeridgian soils. It's a lovely style - relatively soft aromatically, with a certain succlence and ripeness to the fruit and just subtle flint and herbal notes. The underlying terroir minerality is there on the palate, super-fresh and riven with cleansing minerality, and yet that succulence is there again, the mid-palate acid core restraining a burgeoning fruit ripeness to lovely, long-finishing effect. £17.99 by the mixed six. Watch the video for more information and food-matching ideas.
(2020) From a single vineyard in the Côte de Nuits Fixin appellation, vinified in oak fourdres and aged in barriques, this has a medium-deep colour and, as always with this producer, delightful aromatics where those floral and lifted, almost camphor like notes meld beautifully with berry fruit and subtle oak spices. There is earthiness and honesty here. In the mouth the sweetness and pulpy textural weight of the fruit is a treat, the acid and tannin axis sharpening things up but never, ever dominating: it stays supple and fruity, spicy too, into a long, fresh finish. Seriously lovely stuff. £29.99 as part of a mixed six.
(2020) White Côte de Nuits Villages is relatively rare, and indeed only two barrels of this fine Chardonnay sourced from vineyards in Fixin. Fermented in wooden foudres and aged one year in barrique, it has a Brazil nut opulence on the nose, quite Meursault-like, buttery, the palate brimming with ripe fruit, succulent pear and Ogen melon, very juicy, and a beautifully balanced white Burgundy with texture and charm to spare, but the cleansing acidity is framing everything very elegantly. £24.50 as part of a mixed six.
(2020) Just like the white wines, Pierre Bourée only vinifies his red wine in oak vats and ages in barrel. This Gevrey is classic stuff, quite a pale ruby colour and offering a nose that is distinctly and attractively fruity - red berries and cherry - but with such lovely and complex counterpoints of violet and old roses, hints of truffle and game, and a dusting of vanilla. On the palate it strikes a genuinely lovely balance between that fruit concentration and more ethereal, mineral and cherry-skin acid edges, a hint of coffee and truffle again in the finish. Quite firm, quite serious, and a terrific village wine that is surely capable of a decade of cellaring. £44.99 by the mixed six.
(2020) What a delightful nose on this village Puligny, vinified and matured in oak barrels for 14 months. There is oak, but it is fragrant and creamy, floral edges and hint so exotic spices rather than anything too obvious, with a gossamer fruit quality beneath; floral-edged stone fruits and crisp pear. In the mouth, nuttiness and Cox's pippin apples, very good acidity in a fine lime and mineral line that runs through the buttery ripeness and oak toastiness into the finish. Mixed six price is £44.99
(2019) Pinot Noir really is 'Vieilles Vignes' for this wine, with an average vine age of 50 years. Aged 16 months in barrel and coming from a very good vintage, there is solidity and concentration here, but no lack of charm, as indeed the perfume of the wine is lovely, suggestions of old roses and violet, a touch of red liquorice and composed berry fruit. In the mouth this has some weight and again, obvious concentration, there is a nice rasp of plum-skin tannin and acidity, but good fruit sweetness, the dry finish still tannic and youthful, but finishing on fruit and tangy acidity. Should develop nicely over the next decade. Note the price and stockist given at time of review are for the 2015 vintage.
(2019) Even in this Bourgogne Pinot, the average vine age is 45 years. The wine had a "light barrel treatment." The colour is pale garnet, the nose offering briar and brushwood, some rose hip and delicate cherryish fruit. The pure, sweet, ripeness of the fruit as it strikes the palate is remarkable, a silky, almost confiture red berry fruit, but some more earthy and a savoury acid edge cuts through, tannin and a bit of spice too, in a very good and quite complex Bourgogne of high qualty.
(2019) Like the Bourgogne Pinot, the oak treatment here is very light, and the vines are old again, on average 40 years old. It has a creamy and lightly nutty nose, a touch of almond or oatmeal to ripe, mellow apple fruit. On the palate the acidity gives tension and freshness, the oak a little nutty underpinning, but the savoury and sweet fruit on the mid-palate is very moreish and approachable, in a lovely Chardonnay similar to good examples from the Mâconnaise perhaps.
(2019) Les Bas Liards is a lieux-dit, a named parcel of vines within the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, in this case 46-year-old vines and fermented in open-top fermenters with partial whole bunches before a year in second-fill oak. There's a ripeness here, a touch of blackcurrant and kirsch, and a woody twang of something briary and spicy. Quite an exotic background note of Sandalwood too, a touch of earthiness, in a complex picture. The palate has a clear, pure juiciness of fruit, nimble and sprightly due to the crisp and tangy acids and neatly-framed tannins. It is mouth-filling nevertheless with its rounded mid-palate fruit, and satisfyingly long finish.
(2019) We rarely see Aligoté - Burgundy's 'other' white grape - on the shelves very often, and that's a great pity when it is as delicious as this. With only 12% alcohol I guess it was picked fairly early, and that has given it terrific vim and vigour, despite a certain creamy leesiness on the nose and a generous breadth of fruit on the palate. But it tightens up smartly, saline and citrus peel pushing through, into a long and balanced finish in a very moreish wine - especially with richer seafood dishes, fish pies and the like.