(2025) Last time I tasted this de-alcoholised blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah was the 2020 vintage, and I think this is possi ky worth a point more than the 82 scored last time. That's down to a certain elderflower-like freshness joining the summer berry fruitiness. It is still very sweet and rather thin, but if you are in the market for a pleasant zero alcohol drink - though still with little resemblance to wine - it's worth a try.
(2024) From three parcels of vines that are between 50 and 70 years old, this was made with 100% whole bunches in the ferment. Dry, cranberry and briar notes on the nose are classic, a little truffle and forest floor development and a touch vanilla perhaps. In the mouth plenty of freshness but sweet fruit concentration too. Again cranberry, redcurrant, certainly in the tart but juicy red fruit spectrum. Spices and a bolstering touch of deeper oak add to the crunch of the fruit on the finish in a rather stylish way.
(2024) From the village where Nicolas grew up, fermented with native yeasts and age in barrels, 20% of which were new. This ramps up the floral and perfumed ripeness of fruit on the nose, a glimpse of an almost minty intensity before more truffle and sous-bois characters. In the mouth it has richness compared to the Savigny, weight and creaminess. The fruit falls more into the black fruit spectrum, but still with juiciness and a roughening edge of spicy tannin that adds some grip. Balanced and long, this is very good.
(2024) Moving into the Côte de Nuits, this comes from vineyards fully converted to organic farming. The vines were planted in 1952. The rich garnet colour precedes aromas that are firm, spicy and earthy, a touch of vegetal character is perfectly tuned, not dominating the savoury fruit quality. In the mouth it offers plenty of structure with a backbone of tannin and keen acid grip suggesting it will cellar for several years more. Through the mid-palate fruit and texture builds, ripeness and suppleness. A very harmonious finish here, balance is impeccable.
(2024) Made for Tanners by Ben Glover, at first I thought this might have seen a touch of oak as it has a definite sheen of almond or oatmeal on the nose, before more assertive asparagus and fresh-cut grass aromas win through. In the mouth it has good texture and concentration given it's lightweight 12.5% alcohol, full flavoured touching into nectarine and mango, and the acidity is well-judged, i.e. not too harsh or over-bearing for a balanced style of Marlborough Sauvignon.
(2024) An attractively package Provence rosé made for Tanner by Domaine Pey Blanc, it blends 80% Grenache with 20% Cinsault and is unoaked. Very pale in colour, on opening there's a big blast of pear-drops, a common trait in wines that have been fermented super cold. It's a touch difficult to get past that at first, but some watercolour paintbox and watermelon aromas come through. The palate it fruity and easy-going, pear again - crisp Asian pear perhaps - and small red berries, a peachiness develops. Certainly an aroma and flavoured-packed example, with a blast of fresh acidity in the finish.
(2024) Also made for Tanners by Ben Glover, this pours a pale- to medium garnet colour. The nose is lovely, softly laced with truffle and briar, but more about a pulpy strawberry fruit, glossy cherry and hints of clove and caraway. In the mouth it's more of the same, the fruit sweet and solid through the mid-palate, though there is a nice strictness thanks to taut tannins and acids that freshens up the finish.
(2024) Nyetimber's Classic Cuvée is a multi-vintage blend of the three main Champagne grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Handily, typing in the code from the back label into the Nyetimber website will reveal the precise composition of your bottle: mine has 9.4g/l dosage, was disgorged in April after almost four years on the lees, and has plenty of reserve wines in the blend: based on 2019 (77%), it also boasts reserves from every year back to 2014. Shimmering light gold, there is a pastry and biscuit character, as well as a bold golden yellow apple and quince. In the mouth it is a juicy, flavourful sparkling wine with fruit that touches on the tropical before being drawn back by English orchard apples and citrus into a balanced finish. Delightful at any time, but this special release to celebrate Team GB's Paris Olympics comes in a special livery for the occasion. Watch the video for more information.
(2024) An organic Chardonnay in the Artisans Partisans range, from Limoux in the Languedoc. Limoux often offers great value alternatives to the white wines of Burgundy, especially when fermented and matured in French oak as is this example. Vines are 26 to 46 years old, grown at 350 metres altitude. Orange, almond and crushed oatmeal aromas, lemon balm too, in a subtle but creamy style. The sweet ripeness of fruit striking the palate takes one by surprise, then the nuttiness of the oak and richness of texture bolsters the hedonistic character. Acidity and spices refresh the finish nicely.
(2023) This is a selection of the best barrels, for a wine produced only in the best vintages, of Chardonnay that is wild fermented and aged in French oak. The oak sits fairly prominently, nutty, toasty and with a figgy richness. The earthy wild yeast character is a part the picture too. The palate has power, concentrated and rich with its 14% alcohol, again there is fig and smokiness, the fruit dry and incisive, apple and a pithy lemon intensity.
