(2025) My first experience of a wine from the very new DOCG of Canelli, in this example 70-year old vines and a careful selection of the best fruit, for a wine given one year of ageing on lees and bottled with 140g/l of residual sugar. It is softly effervescent and has a family resemblence to the Lumine Moscato d'Asti, but intensity and complexity ramped up. So delightfully fresh, frothy and sweet as it should be, but the complex herbal and floral nuances, the peach fruit and hint of frozen, crunchy fresh grapes is delivered with a refined mousse that caresses the tongue.
(2024) This beautifully pitched high altitude Chardonnay carries its oak (11 months in Bordeaux barriques) more lightly than the previously tasted 2017, and is all the better for it. In fact it is both elegant and generous on the nose, nutty almond notes merging with custard apple and lime rind. In the mouth it is concentrated, intense, with a rich and mouth-filling texture, but crucially it is juicy, fresh and mouthwatering too, that orange and lime, more lush take on citrus, powers through against that creamy and nutty background.
(2024) Quite a different blend from the Argentiera for this wine from the low-lying and sandy Villa Donoractico vineyard: 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and there's 10% Petit Verdot too. Eighty percent was aged in 500-litre French and Austrian oak tonneaux, the remainder in French oak barriques. There's a plum and cedar, quite meaty nose here, subtle notes of clove spice. In the mouth sour cherry floods the palate along with dry, fine and sandy tannins. There is sweetness here, cassis-ripe plushness of juicy black fruit emerging, but very keen acidity, that grippy tannin and the plum-skin bite of extract coats the mouth. This would benefit from some time in the cellar I think, though it unfurls in the glass.
(2020) From the highest part of the Pinot Noir vineyard, this spent a full 60 months on the lees and has a dosage at 6g/l. The nose is lovely, crammed with small red berries, that extended time on the lees giving a touch of biscuit and light earthiness. In the mouth peach and, again, small tart red berries are brisk and fresh, the lemony thrust of the acidity extending the finish. A really nice rosé. No UK stockist at time of review, but the wine is available internationlly from xtrawine.com for around £22 per bottle.
