The family-owned and run wine farm at Riverby Estate is one of my favourites in the Marlborough region of New Zealand. Unlike its flash neighbours on Jacksons Road, like Cloudy Bay and Allan Scott, this is a more humble operation, but one that is entirely focused on fruit quality.
Run sustainably by Kevin Courtney (right) and his family, sheep wander through the vineyard to control weeds, and most of the original farm buildings up to 100 years old are still in use. It’s a timeless, bucolic scene.
Originally a crop and sheep farm, vines were first planted in 1989. Today, eight different varieties are spread across 70 hectares. Sauvignon Blanc may be the main variety, but there’s Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Semillon, Syrah and Grüner Veltliner – a particularly diverse range for this part of the world. Some of the oldest plantings are Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Syrah, dating back over 30 years and many on their own roots. Grüner Veltliner was planted in 2010, making Riverby one of the pioneers of the variety in Marlborough.
I’ve been lucky enough to taste the wines very regularly since 2010 – in fact I see there are almost 70 notes on Riverby wines in my database. Kevin has recently sent me his latest releases and I have say, quality is going from strength to strength. Several of the new vintages have earned their highest ever scores ever from me. This is a low-key Marlborouh estate of great quality.
N.B. Riverby Estate’s UK importer is Black Dog Wine Agency, who also retail the wines direct to the public. To coincide with the publication of this article there is 15% off the full prices quoted below, across the entire Riverby range.
The White Wines
(2024) From an excellent vintage, this immediately impresses with its intensity: the nose is a pungent explosion of guava and mango, with elderflower streaking through the aromatic exoticism. In the mouth that tropical fruit juiciness opens the show, but almost instantly a phalanx of lime acidity drives a wedge through the centre, propelling the wine to a lip-smacking, dry finish. There's more than enough fruity extract to coat the palate and withstand the onslaught of the wine's freshness so there is no fruit/acid imbalance. A concentrated, decisive example of Marlborough Sauvignon at its best. Watch the video for more information.
(2024) Riverby's Grüner is fast becoming a favourite in their range. As in previous vintages it displays a fragrant peach and ripe pear opulence and juiciness that combines with a sheer, mineral acidity for a wine that is luscious with a definite fruity sweetness and ripeness, but has such a focused, clear line to the finish. A cracking example.
Riverby Estate, Pinot Gris 2023
Marlborough, New Zealand, Dry White, Screwcap, 13.0% abv(2024) This is another of Riverby's wines that just seems to get better each vintage, and this one is an absolute gem. From vines planted in 2006, and with just a touch of residual sugar to add weight rather than sweetness, it has a succulent stone fruit nose, a delicate biscuit or pastry warmth and yet real freshness too, floral and citrus adding vivid highlights. The palate is absolutely delicious I must say. Fleshy nectarine sweetness has loads of depth, star anise hints, even a touch of ginger or clove, and the thrusting core of lime acidity is so precise without being too sharp. Beguiling stuff.
(2024) Vintage after vintage I really enjoy this wine. It's the only wine in the Riverby Estate portfolio where the fruit does not come from their own vineyard, hence the sub-brand, Cicada. It's a lovely wine, just off dry but with loads of substance and a bite of dry extract to add to the seriousness. All the hallmark notes of lychee and rose petal are there, but the peachy ripeness of the mid-palate fruit and the way it merges into that crisp, powerful finish whilst retaining a hint of szechuan-friendly sweetness, is marvellous.
Riverby Estate, Dry Riesling 2023
Marlborough, New Zealand, Dry White, Screwcap, 12.0% abv(2024) Riverby's Riesling block is one of the oldest in Marlborough, and this cuvée is made in a mouthwatering dry style. The nose has hints of beeswax and crushed stone, but there's a distinct floral aspect to this too. In the mouth bags of fat, zest lemon and lime, just hinting at the downy skins of peaches, but steely at the core that wins through to a long, clear, sherbetty finish.
(2024) Ultra reliable, just off-dry Riesling, this comes from a dedicated block of the Riverby vineyard. Slate and wet river stones, with a very delicate waxiness. Yellow apple and lime fruit, something a little floral too? Peachy sweet as it strikes the palate, but bracing acidity slices through that fruit juiciness and sweetness. Rounded and creamy-textured, it's both sophisticated and crowd-pleasingly delicious.
(2024) Always a delight, this 9.5% alcohol Kabinett-style Riesling has more weight and voluptuous texture than might be expected in a Mosel or Rhine example, but has pin-point accurate acid balance too. Hints of beeswax and ginger to lovely stone fruit and lime aromas, the sweet and deliciously pure fruit on the palate. The acid balance offsets the sweetness and hints of exotic, tropical fruit beautifully.
Riverby Estate, Chardonnay 2022
Marlborough, New Zealand, Dry White, Screwcap, 13.0% abv(2024) Exclusively planted with the Mendoza Clone, Riverby's Chardonnay vineyard was first planted in 1999. What a delight this is aromatically, creamy and almondy, with a ripe aand rounded but zippy stone fruit and lime character. Gorgeous texture, something like passion fruit adds extra succulence, but what a lovely texture and satisfyingly rounded mouthfeel. The acid is perfectly ripe and perfectly balanced. Reminds me of Pouilly Fuisse perhaps - but a very, very good one.
(2024) A fabulous, moreish wine from a 30-year-old-plus vineyard. It is planted with the Mendoza clone of Chardonnay, famed for its 'hen and chick' tendency of uneven grape sizes, which makes such interesting wines. It was matured in French oak. The nose fuses almond and even walnutty, cappuccino depth with an exotic mango fruitiness. Theres a hint of flint too. The palate displays a similar high-wire balancing act, with real Seville orange and juicy apple freshness, more tropical tones, and just enough creamy, nutty, coffeeish depth of oak. That flinty and smoky touch adds a lovely extra dimension. Fabulous balance and length.
The Rosé and Red Wines
Riverby Estate, Rosé 2023
Marlborough, New Zealand, Dry Rosé, Screwcap, 13.0% abv(2024) And here we go again: though the track record for this wine is not as long as some of the others, the first time I tasted it being the 2022 vintage, for me this rosé steps up a gear. It is literally overflowing with strawberry cup, summer aromas, plenty of floral highlights, rose-hip and lychee (though mostly Pinot Noir, I believe small proportions of aromatic white varieties are blended in). In the mouth a little bit of residual sugar gives it even more of a summery, forget all your troubles character, that buoyant fruit nicely sliced through by a zesty acidity. A fabulous little summer pink to serve well chilled.
Riverby Estate, Syrah 2021
Marlborough, New Zealand, Dry Red, Screwcap, 13.0% abv(2024) I'm a big fan of Riverby's Syrah, even though it is not available in the UK and Syrah as a variety is almost unheard of in Marlborough. There's a lively quality of black fruit touched by exotic spices like caraway, with a gloss of balsamic oak. The palate has medium weight and ripe black fruit, smooth as silk and finishing with excellent balance. For me, another very fine expression of Syrah from the region.
(2024) Matured for a year in French oak barrels, the nose has an intriguing combination of charry, roasted chestnut depth and lifted, floral kirsch and rose fragrance. It's a lovely combination, giving layers of complexity to the aroma. On the palate, spice and meaty flavours again combine with such sweet and plush red berry fruits. Ripeness is excellent, but twin forces of silky tannin and the keen, honed edge of acidity keep the picture taut and juicy. It's a marvellous Pinot this, among the best I've tasted from the ever-improving Pinot scene in the Marlborough region: long, pure-fruited and beautifully balanced into the finish.
Wait until you try the 2023 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Tom, they were sensational from barrel in November
I look forward to it Ian. Really going from strength to strength it seems.