(2024) From a small, sustainably-run estate in Martinborough, this is absolutely the style I expect, with a bit of solidity and higher alcohol, but not without fragrance and elegance. At eight years of agethere's a mere hint of tawny on the rim, but aromas are immediately fresh, with wild strawberry meshing with a sizzle of bacon fat, some truffle and a deeper fruit character. The palate has a certain meatiness and there is a grounding of coffee-ish oak that gives a touch of char. But on top, the fruit is bright and sharply focused, with plenty of acidity and a smoothness to the tannins. I do feel the heat of the alcohol a little, which knocks it back a point or two, but a premium example of quite a serious Martinborough style.
(2024) With 13.8% alcohol this is just a bit lighter than the 2014, and for me, that's a marginal benefit. Colour is much the same with just a hint of amber on the rim as nine years old, but the nose seems to have just a touch more light and shade, floral and light, herbs and briarwood character showing through a little more. Delightfully sweet fruit on the palate, this gaining in sweet-fruited purity what the 2014 has in more muscular density. Very refined and elegant this, in both fruit, tannin, cherry-ripe acidity and a more background quality to the oak.
(2024) Made with 10% whole bunches, part wild-fermented. After 14 – 15 days maceration the juice was basket pressed into French oak barriques, 20% of which were new. Still that chestnutty character, but perhaps just a little more lift to this, a little more floral and raspberry fruit character, but the meaty, umami notes still there there, a cordial-like richness. In the mouth tannins are quite silky but edge the plummy fruit with a bit of liquorice or endive bite, accentuated by a firm acid structure. Oak is background component, perhaps adding just a touch of espresso darkness. Some more time in bottle would suit the wine I think.
(2024) This Reserve vintage from Dublin St. is in an absolutely perfect place. Basket pressed to French oak barriques (25% new) for 12 months, it is infused with a swirl of tobacco and coffee, a cedary elegance too. The fruit is intense but in an elegant, red-fruited style, floral notes flitting around raspberry and fat, ripe cherry. The palate caresses with silky tannins and more of that glossy, ripe and juicy fruit, but there's an edge here, between truffle and tapenade, giving a savoury, chewy balance to the opulence. Long, fruity, but serious and juicy with a keen orange acidity, it's a lovely Pinot.
(2024) Riverby's Riesling block is one of the oldest in Marlborough, and this cuvée is made in a mouthwatering dry style. The nose has hints of beeswax and crushed stone, but there's a distinct floral aspect to this too. In the mouth bags of fat, zest lemon and lime, just hinting at the downy skins of peaches, but steely at the core that wins through to a long, clear, sherbetty finish.
(2024) Riverby's Grüner is fast becoming a favourite in their range. As in previous vintages it displays a fragrant peach and ripe pear opulence and juiciness that combines with a sheer, mineral acidity for a wine that is luscious with a definite fruity sweetness and ripeness, but has such a focused, clear line to the finish. A cracking example.
(2024) This is another of Riverby's wines that just seems to get better each vintage, and this one is an absolute gem. From vines planted in 2006, and with just a touch of residual sugar to add weight rather than sweetness, it has a succulent stone fruit nose, a delicate biscuit or pastry warmth and yet real freshness too, floral and citrus adding vivid highlights. The palate is absolutely delicious I must say. Fleshy nectarine sweetness has loads of depth, star anise hints, even a touch of ginger or clove, and the thrusting core of lime acidity is so precise without being too sharp. Beguiling stuff.
(2024) And here we go again: though the track record for this wine is not as long as some of the others, the first time I tasted it being the 2022 vintage, for me this rosé steps up a gear. It is literally overflowing with strawberry cup, summer aromas, plenty of floral highlights, rose-hip and lychee (though mostly Pinot Noir, I believe small proportions of aromatic white varieties are blended in). In the mouth a little bit of residual sugar gives it even more of a summery, forget all your troubles character, that buoyant fruit nicely sliced through by a zesty acidity. A fabulous little summer pink to serve well chilled.
(2024) A fabulous, moreish wine from a 30-year-old-plus vineyard. It is planted with the Mendoza clone of Chardonnay, famed for its 'hen and chick' tendency of uneven grape sizes, which makes such interesting wines. It was matured in French oak. The nose fuses almond and even walnutty, cappuccino depth with an exotic mango fruitiness. Theres a hint of flint too. The palate displays a similar high-wire balancing act, with real Seville orange and juicy apple freshness, more tropical tones, and just enough creamy, nutty, coffeeish depth of oak. That flinty and smoky touch adds a lovely extra dimension. Fabulous balance and length.
(2024) Always a delight, this 9.5% alcohol Kabinett-style Riesling has more weight and voluptuous texture than might be expected in a Mosel or Rhine example, but has pin-point accurate acid balance too. Hints of beeswax and ginger to lovely stone fruit and lime aromas, the sweet and deliciously pure fruit on the palate. The acid balance offsets the sweetness and hints of exotic, tropical fruit beautifully.
