Wine Region: Somerset West

(2024) This is not the current vintage of this wine (the 2017 is the one most retailers seem to be stocking), but it just shows how beautifully the wine ages over several years. From an estate very much focused on Bordeaux as a model, it spent 17 months in barrels from top French coopers, 40% new. When I last tasted it in 2019 I noted "serious structure, the deep black fruit bound by firm, gripping tannins and decisive acidity," and while the tannins have mellowed a little since, that wonderful balance of the wine, and that wonderful combination of fruit and structure remains. The intervening five years have also developed its tertiary aromas suggesting game and sweet, damp earth among the more plush black fruits. The current vintage can be had for £17-£18 quite widely, which is surely very attractive for a wine of considerable pedigree and cellaring potential. Stockist and price quoted for the most recent vintage.

(2022) From a selection of the best parcels of fruit, aged in French oak barrels for 18 months, this wine was blended in cooperation with Pierre Lurton of Château Cheval Blanc. It is composed of 36% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, plus 14% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A very powerful and plush aroma, deeply-set with blue-black fruit, very polished graphite and creamy dark oak aromas, and with a lovely little pepper and floral lift. That polished depth carries through to the palate, where a sumptuous bed of black fruit and creamy, dark oak supports juicier hints of fruit and pert cherry-skin acidity, the finish filled with fruit and tobacco-like spices with excellent length. This must surely have considerable cellaring potential too.

(2019) This barrel fermented sparkling MCC uses old Cape brandy as the dosage. 100% Chardonnay, the residual sugar is 7.5g/l. A really creamy richness after 36 months on the Lees. Beautiful mousse, so luxurious, perfect balance and length. A lovely wine, though I can find no UK retail stockists at time of review.

(2019) From 51-year-old vineyards. Fermented in Austrian oval casks and 9 months on the lees. There's A touch of green fig and smokiness, lots of green bean, oily and rich, the palate rounded and pungently flavoursome, great acidity but such lovely punch and vibrancy in a Graves style.

(2019) Ripe, but cut by a lanolin and touch of green that slices through the creaminess. Big powerful wine, immense concentration, such orange and lemon juiciness and layered texture, but the buttery weight and texture is a delight. Price and stockist at time of review is for the previous vintage.

(2019) Officially G.V.B = Grown, Vinified and Bottled, though the gleam in Andre van Rensburg's eye suggests that unofficially he could have had something else in mind. 'Grand Vin de Bordeaux' perhaps? Matured in 500-litre barrels for the Sauvignon, and 225-litre barrels for the 40% Semillon in the blend. Gorgeous nose, the oatmeal and cream, the gentle exotic wood spices with a rounded creamy palate of stone fruits and lemon. The palate has a mineral, flint and taut fruit palate, the acid structure is superb, in a thrilling wine.

(2019) More toasty than the G.V.B for sure, fat lemon fruit, a little orange rind and sesame seed. A powerful palate yet again: immense concentration, the texture, the bold and assertive acidity and the luscious fruit make a heady, delicious concoction.

(2019) Michel Rolland misunderstood Andre, who was looking for 3000 cases, but Michel thought it was 3000 bottles, so they had to suddenly blend 33,000 extra bottles. 17 months in all French oak, 50% new. High, pepper, cedar and bright cassis fruit. Very juicy blackcurrant fruit, slicked with chocolate, deep plum fruit, a little balsamic, but very pure, and lovely polished tannins and svelte fruit.

(2019) This spent 18 months in all new French oak. Black, ripe, dense fruit, great darkness and drama, so concentrated, rich and balsamic. A slick of black fruit, spices and all the time little clove and floral notes floating over the the dense fruit base. Very polished, creamy, tight-grained tannins and lovely balance.

(2019) Like its "First Thought" partner, 18 months in all new French oak for this bottling, from an older vineyard on clay soils. So smoky, creamy and ripe, cassis and lovely finesse, very fragrant and lithe, such a juicy wine, great sense of alacrity.