(2024) LabelThe massively popular Whispering Angel from Cave d'Esclans is a global phenomenon, but it is just one of several premium rosés made by this Provence-based producer. Majority  owned by LVMH, the range includes both estate wines and wines made from fruit sourced from local growers.

Though their £100 per bottle Garrus is a game-changer for the rosé sector (latest vintage to be reviewed soon), I always think this, the first of the range made from estate-grown fruit, is where Esclans moves into more serious fine wine territory.

The Château d’Esclans is a blend of Grenache and Rolle, fermented in a combination of steel and 600-litre oak barrels. Pale and peachy pink, the creaminess and very gentle sheen of oatmeal from the barrels adds a luxurious touch to the pert stone fruit and hint of redcurrant. The palate too has texture and creamy weight, and while filled with supple and smooth fruit, there's a bit of grip here and no shortage of balancing acidity. It's a rosé that doesn't want to be over-chilled, and will match mildly spicy foods as well as salmon or trout. Note that at time of writing, North & South Wines has this on sale by the six-bottle case, bring the per bottle equivalent close to £30.

(2024) A well-regarded Cru Bourgeois located between St Julien and Margaux, Beaumont's 2016 is more or less equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with 9% Petit Verdot. Youthful in appearance, notes of blackcurrant, plum, game and cedar are classically framed, spice and tapenade/herbal notes too. In the mouth the fruit is surprisngly ripe, sweet and fleshy, rippling blackcurrant moving into a spicy finish with a bit of dark cocoa and a pert cherry skin bite to the acidity. Watch my video review for more information.
(2024) 'Tall poppy syndrome' refers to the tendency for some people to cut successful entities 'down to size'. There's no doubt that the mega-brand of Whispering Angel suffers from that; some commentators claiming it is over-priced and intrinsically 'nothing special.' Having tasted the wine vintage after vintage for most of its 18 year history, I disagree and the 2023 is as good, if not better, than ever. Blended from old vine Grenache, Cinsault and Rolle, it's made in stainless-steel with lees-stirring. The peachy-pink colour heralds such an attractive nose, with watermelon and small red berries, passion fruit and downy peach skins. Dry but delightfully peachy and fresh, a hint of strawberry and then confit lemon is buoyant and rounded. That texture and fruit is extended by perfectly balanced acidity. Watch the video for more information.
(2024) 100% Tempranillo, this is a high quality Rioja which will appeal most to fans of the marzipan, coconut and espresso-slicked hedonistic and velvety style. The fruit comes from the best vineyards of the property where vines have an average age of 50 years. The wine spends 24 months in all new American oak barrels, where it remains for 24 months, followed by several year in bottle before release. After that intense, balsamic richness of the aromas, the palate shows sumptuous depths of black fruit and charry oak, but zipping cherry and plum skin acidity as well as edgy tannins bring freshness. Long, spicy finish.
(2024) A limited production wine made from 100-year-old Tempranillo from a single vineyard at 550 metres in the Rioja Alta region. It spent seven months in French oak barrels and 10 more in bottle before release. Vanilla, rich black fruit and a racy suggestion of gravel and cedar are the opening impressions. There's a little hint of violet lift too. In the mouth it is firm and structured. A vinous black plum, blackcurrant intensity of fruit floods the mid-palate, but mouth-coating, sandy tannins combine with spicy, mocha coffee oak and pert cherry acidity to give a long, fresh but powerful finish with a bit of gravitas. Should cellar well. Watch the video for more information.
(2024) The is the second of Château Rauzan-Ségla, the famous Margaux second growth is now under the ownership of the Chanel luxury goods family. The vineyards here are around 95% composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. A very youthful crimson colour, there's a floral touch to the cedar and quite pastille-like fruit. It is very correct; medium-bodied and fresh, with moderate tannins and nicely focused acidity, and the fruit flitting between black and red as I always think befits the appellation. Nicely balanced and satisfying, I'd say this is ready to go.
(2023) Fans of the hugely popular Whispering Angel may not even realise that producer, Château d’Esclans, makes a whole range of rosé wines costing up to £100 per bottle. This will set you back a bit more than Whispering Angel, but to that wines dry, red-fruited charm and purity, it adds a mineral intensity. There's also a subtle creamy and full texture, partly from fermentation in French oak, in a wine that is Whispering Angel's older sibling, showing that much more gravitas. A delicious rosé and gastronomic too, eat with salmon prepared however your prefer or creamy mushroom pasta or risotto.
(2023) Like it's 'big brother', the Garrus cuvée, this is where rosé gets serious, for me having more in common with quality white Burgundy than generic pinks. From a very careful selection of grapes, only the free run juice is vinified in 600-litre oak barrels for a full 11 months, with lees stirring twice weekly. Indeed, that's a winemaking recipe that would be familiar for white Burgundy too. Certainly, that sheen of almond and oatmeal is luxurious and subtle in this very pale wine, the fruit only hinting a small, intense red berries while lemon joins the picture. On the palate it is generous and creamy, but the sweet intensity of the fruit powers through. There is a little nip of tannin, but the concentration of fruit and acidity is what drives the long, dry, gastronomic finish. This and Garrus really are a different take on rosé.
(2023) Tasted here is a special edition in an extravagent livery of flowers and berries, the bottle painted by Swedish artist Hanna KL. It's a selection of the best fruit from both coastal and interior vineyards of the Côtes de Provence. Minuty produce one of the lightest and delicate styles, the fruit pretty and refined, dry berry flavours and bright lemony highlights in a wine with the clarity of a of running mountain stream. This doesn't have the fruit depth and concentration of some of the other Provence rosés, but that's the style: some will find it too anodyne, but chilled well it does summon up those salt-licked breezes as if sipping it by the Med. £19.95 when bought by the half dozen.
(2023) Syrah, Grenache, Rolle, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Tibouren are in the mix here, from an estate owned by the luxury goods house of Channel. Unusually it is based on the island of Porquerolles, just off France’s Côte d’Azur, a 12.5 hectare organically farmed estate. A slightly deeper shade than many, touching bronze, the nose has orange and melon rind notes, hints of spice here too. In the mouth, plenty of flavour here. There's ripeness of pear fruit along with red berry succulence. It hints at some sweetness, but then a racy, slightly saline acidity grabs and extends the finish. Again quite a serious and gastronomic style with a bit of substance. £27.95 by the half dozen.