(2024) Apanage Brut 1874 is based on Pommery's 'réserve perpétuelle' that forms a significant part of the blend. This release is based on the 2018 vintage, blended with components of 2015 and 2012. The wine spent 48 months on the lees and was bottled with 'a low dosage'. Aromatically it's all about brioche and biscuit, with Golden Delicious fruit and a nutty background. The foamy mousse precedes a relatively crisp palate, plenty of citrus and a prickle of nettles or herbs. The biscuity richness fills in again, for a balanced Champagne with good length.
(2021) We're in very light, raspberry-scented and relatively dry sparkling wine country here, with a Fairtrade-accredited wine from Chile made using one of the 'Criolla' historical grape varieties, País. It is made by the traditional method, but with a relatively short period on the lees so it's much more about fruit and freshness than any yeasty character. Nimble, with some rose-hip and refined red fruit, then good acid balance.
(2021) First produced in 1989, three different Chardonnay clones are picked and whole-cluster pressed and barrel-fermented in French oak, 40% new. This wine sees 100% malolactic fermentation. The buttery and lightly-toasty richness of the oak is quite apparent on the nose, giving an impression of depth and generosity. On the palate, the rush of sweet, ripe stone fruit fill the mid-palate, the wine full and textured, but a good level of acidity fills in on the finish, a hint of nutty barrel component, in a very satisfying Chardonnay.
(2020) Fabulous, opulent nose, the creamy plushness of the fruit, the blackcurrant glossiness, spices from 20 months in different formats of oak, and all the fruit from hillside blocks. Game and meat, but really up-front fruit dominates, the sour cherry acidity and bloody, meatiness of the fruit gives this lovely presence. Tangy, juicy acids and tight tannins. Price and stockist is for a previous vintage at time of review.
(2018) Heytesbury is a selection of the best vineyards and fruit. 100% Gin Gin, the recipe again was for pressing straight to barrel and fermentation with wild yeast. Lees were stirred regularly during nine months ageing in 57% new French oak. Subtle wild ferment earthiness and nuttiness, a juicy directness, firm and acidic, it stays quite grippy and intense, but very good fruit. This has length and a good balance and certainly the fruit and infill of creamy oak to give lovely balance.
(2017) Aged 14 months in new oak, 80% French and 20% American. Big, super-ripe, even slightly raisiny, pruney aromas, but Amarone-like rather than being stewed or baked: cloves and spices too. Terrific energy and real freshness on the palate, an electrical charge of power, all the time the solid fruit at the core and a grippy finish. Very good - big, but fleet of foot. Should cellar well for a decade.
