Wine Region: New York State

(2023) From the Finger Lakes, a Grūner that's honestly quite unlike any Austrian example I've tried, filled with peachy, very ripe and light-bodied fruit, floral aspects and a sudden peak of grapefruit or sharp lime acidity kicking in on the finish. I couldn't quite get my head around this wine at first, with its easy drinking charms yet nip of Italian bitters in the finish, but a second glass seemed to smooth that out to finish with more of a definite bitter orange and grapefruit tang to make for a pleasing drink.

(2022) A Grüner Veltliner from the cool Finger Lakes in upstate New York, home to some excellent Riesling, so why not Grüner? There's an elderflower and gooseberry twist to this, quite Sauvignon-like, then the palate broadens into a fleshy and ripe, even just off-dry mouthful of peach and mango exoticism. Tangy apple and citrus notes join toward the finish, to leave this very sippable and Oriental cuisine-friendly.

(2022) Winemaker Peter Bell spoke about the difference between the continental climate here in the Finger Lakes, and the more Mediterranean climate of Long island, with a very late bud-break followed by rapid development where the vines 'catch up' with the rest of the state. It also has a little Traminette in the blend, an offspring of Gewurztraminer. Creamy apples and lemons on the nose, a little juicy Ogen melon character and just a hint of florals in this unoaked Chardonnay. Dry, lemony and pithy on the palate, there's ripe pear and apple fruit sweetness, but that pithiness and sharp hint of salinity tightens up the finish. pH: 3.28, Acidity: 6.9g/l, RS: 0.0gl. Seeking UK distribution, this wine has an RRP of $14 US.

(2022) Winemaker Nathan Kendall has returned home to establish his winery, citing the cooler climate as a main driving force on that decision. He suggests global warming has shifted the winter climate, with less consistent snowfall and more extreme weather events. His wine sees spontaneous fermentation in neutral oak, with around 11 months on the lees in barrel and partial malolactic. Lovely nose - it is Burgundian, both the gentle toast and butter of the nose, but also a touch of spice and creamy lemon fruitiness. The palate has plenty of sweetness, along with a touch of RS there is a sweet nectarine fruit juiciness. The acidity, again salts and zest, really pushes through. pH: 3.3, Acidity: 7.7g/l, RS: 4g/l.

(2022) "Unashamedly big," according to winemaker Emma Norbiato, this has 14.5% alcohol and goes into 100% American oak, including some barriques. The vineyards are 25 years old, planted in two vineyards, one on clay and one on limestone. Laden with ripe dark fruit and vanilla and spicy rum and raisin fudge on the nose, the palate has coffee and chocolate underpinning more plush, super-ripe and succulent fruit. Tannins and brisk acidity do freshen the finish, where that spicy mocha oak persists too. You have to like the full-on hedonistic style, but really well done. No UK retail stockists listed at time of review. UK importer is Nectar Imports Ltd.

(2022) 100% Chardonnay, Dijon clone #76 and Davis clone 3, planted between 1988 and 1994. Winemaker Roman Roth explained how this is a Spring frost-free region, yet is cooler in summer than Manhattan for example, which is why so many New Yorkers head to the Hamptons and other resort areas for summer. This wine is fermented and aged in French oak, around 19% new barrels. Mealy and creamy, a little nougat and peach. In the mouth the oak gives a little nuttiness and also some tannic firmness, the fruit like lemon and melon skins. It has quite a firm finish, again a note of salinity, a lovely wine if perhaps a little too strict in the finish. Roman suggests it will age well for a decade. Acidity: 6.0g/l, RS: 0.05g/l. Seeking UK distribution, this wine has an RRP of $32 US.

(2022) Yes, a 2014 vintage, from a winery that buys its fruit from various sub-regions of the Finger Lakes. De-stemmed and fermented with natural yeasts and in to 500-litre neutral oak barrels for 36 months. It's a remarkable wine, with lovely bloody and forest floor development, but a perfume of red fruits and flowers comes through. In the mouth a stripe of liquorice to the chalky tannins and acids gives this real purpose, but the fruit and a gentle mocha coffee note adds balancing fruit and richness. Not in the UK at time of review.

(2022) From Long Island, this has a creamy but fresh raspberry character, there's a little floral, violet edge too that adds fragrance and firmness. On the palate this has a substantial, juicy black fruit character. With good acidity giving a bite and freshness, tight tannins and a polish of oak, it stays quite lean and sinewy in style, but delicious. Not in the UK.

(2022) From the Finger Lakes, again creamy and ripe, with red fruits as much as black, a light Cru Beaujolais-like character perhaps. Fleet-footed and crisp on the palate, those Beaujolais images are still in my mind, surely some carbonic maceration here. Lovely fruit, dry, touches of florals, but balance of acidity and medium-tannins are lovely.

(2021) This wine from the Finger Lakes is made in an Auslese style, harvested in late October with a proportion of Botrytis-affected grapes. Pleasing, lightly honeyed nose, fruit of sweet red apples and a touch of barley sugar. The palate has texture and richness, but the dry Botrytis extract balances the juicy fruit sweetness. Acid is good, though perhaps just a touch more zip would have made for an event better wine.