(2019) Chenin from granite, Verdelho and a touch of Viognier. All fermented in old oak, mostly big barrels, though the Chenin in older 225l barriques. There’s a bittersweet character here, and lots of juicy apple skin and firm pear flesh. Lots of lemony acidity, lemon jelly softness yet good acid bite.
(2019) Glowing amber/gold. So ripe, notes of dried apricot and tobacco, light, sweet earth, a touch of spice. Dry and chewy density on the palate, the high lemon rind and lime acidity against the soft, smoky tobacco, but very pure and long, lots of salinity in the finish.
(2019) Lovely burnished gold colour. Such complex tobacco and briar and sweet damp earth. The palate is so powerful and grippy, an amost Fino-like intensity but different flavour profile. Some lemon rind, but red wine or even Cognac-like in its dry vinous character and grip and quite magnificent as the toast and earthiness pushes through.
(2019) Gravner's only red variety, Pignolo, fermented in big, open barrels with wild yeasts and no temperature control, followed by 10 more years ageing in big barrels and bottle. Quite a lot of colour, fine smoky edge, with a lick of volatility, intense cherry. On the palate bloody and raw, a game edge and dry but sweet reducrrant blackberry, an olive grip of sourness and acidity, the tannins ever present, and a long spicy finish.
(2017) Lemony freshness and ultimate delicacy here, just dazzling and rather fabulous, hints of buttery brioche add roundness and a touch of pleasing softness, but it's the filigree acidity and freshness that drives this.
(2017) Made in an Amarone style, from 45-year-old vines, the grapes dried for 6 to 7 weeks. Smoky, tight, blue-black fruit with an intensity and a touch of prune, but absolutely not stewed, it's the ripe juiciness that comes through. Tight and black into the finish.
(2016) From a blend of all of the McLaren Vale vineyards used by Jauma, if the name conjures up delicacy and transparency, well that's not quite the case, but the wine, aged in neutral barrels, is a bright and more easily approachable in style, with a supple, velvet texture and big mouthful of crushed berries and fine herbs, the talcumy tannins adding to the seduction.
(2016) Named after James Erskine's dad - Grandpa Antony to James' kids - this is sourced from very old vines in McLaren Vale, and is a supple, creamy Grenache, with great fruit intensity, but there is lift, perfume and layered aroma and flavour too, a little kirsch, smokiness and crisp bacon fat, and a good supporting structure that suggest it will age. Grown organically and made with zero added sulphur I believe.
(2016) Very attractive creamy cappuccino character, the orange rind notes and it is gently sappy, briary and coffee-ish again, with a rasp of tannin and acidity and terrific squirting juiciness. Lovely structural elements here too. Note: UK stockist and price are for the 2014 vintage at time of review.
(2016) Matured in puncheons, one-third new. A much flintier, complex sulphide nose, from a higher vineyard, 100 metres higher than the M3 Chardonnay, as they have "chased vineyards further up the hill." Toast and sweet barrel notes, the palate has gorgeous sweet ripeness, but juicy orchard fruit and touches of peach before a savoury lemon and salt acidity. Note: price and stockist quoted is for 2014 at time of review.