Wine Region: Galicia

(2025) This unoaked Mencia from clay and schist soils in Valdeorras is Virgen del Galir's entry level, but shows the delicate cherry-coloured and scented style of the variety very nicely. It is perfumed, but a hint of briar and earthiness adds some depth. In the mouth it has the classic combination of sweet red and black berries with an edge of bright acidity and fine tannins that is typical. This finishes with excellent crispness and clarity.

(2025) From high altitude vineyards, this comes from an early ripening vintage and is made in stainless steel. There's a hint of mealy richness on the nose, of limey fruit skins too with a sense of some minerality and weight. The palate has a touch of sweet Mandarin orange, but firm, slightly salty acids and again, citrus peel directness, gives this quite a steely finish to balance the river mid-palate fruit.

(2025) From Valdeorras in Spain, this is 100% Merenzao from the tiny Los Carismáticos vineyard, planted in terraces and shaped like an amphiteathre. The vines are more than 50 years old and the poor soil is worked manually. Spontaneous fermentation in large, 2,500 litre foudres. It has a pale cherry colour at six years old, the nose lightly truffly with small cranberry and redcurrant fruit aromas, and an interesting green-ish, mineral aspect. In the mouth it is firm and savoury, with a certain suede-like character to the texture. The fruit is again taut, small red berries, and its a wine with a tight core of acidity and tannin. Intriguing stuff, which would work well against Parmesan or mature cheddar I think.

(2025) From high altitude vineyards, mostly composed of slate. After 48 hours of cold maceration, fermentation in steel is followed by eight months barrel ageing in French and American oak. Moderately pale, there is delightful cherry and briar lift here, gently floral with the soft sheen of vanilla beneath. The palate has signature minerality, adding that firm edge to flavour and texture. Fruit is firm but with a delightful edge of sweetness on the mid-palate, a liquorice twist of bittersweetness edging the finish. What a lovely wine.

(2025) From the Premier Cru vineyard of A Malosa in the village of Éntoma at 600 metres, this spent three month on fine lees in stainless steel, foudres and 500-litre French oak barrels. It's a particularly intense Godello, with a typical mineral salts zippiness, but quite rich white fruit aromas, crunchy apple, but a certain silkiness to the texture that gives it a supple, mouth-filling presence.

(2025) From the single vineyard 'As Ermitas' which is just one hectare in size and sits at 750 metres altitude, the vines here very old, planted in 1958. It is dominated by Mencia, but a variety of local grapes are co-planted in this vineyard. Six second-use barrels were produced, the wine fermented with native yeasts and spending 12 months oak. There is warmth to the colour of this 2020 wine compared to the purple of the younger wines tasted, and a sweet and spicy bramble and earth profile that also carries a floral touch. In the mouth the acidity of the Mencia grape slices through the richness afforded by the barrel ageing and development of the ripe fruit. This finishes long, with a spicy edge to the fruit and tannins. Watch the video for more information.

(2025) Virgen del Galir winery is located in Éntoma on Galicia and has been part of the CVNE family since 2018. This Godello comes from premier cru vineyards, and sees no oak. There's an immediate firmness, the nose herbal and reminiscent of fruit skins and peel. In the mouth that strict and mouthwatering quality has real definition: there's a citrus and salts acid drive to this wine, which is grippy with a phenolic presence. It tingles on the tongue with minerality and pithy but rich texture and substance.

(2024) From various plots in Salnes, some vines 100 years old, this was fermented under controlled temperature using indigenous yeasts. It's a wine that at first seemed underpowered to me, but it's definite edge of salinity to crisp, lemony fruit was good and it grew on me as I tasted. There's a pithiness and saltiness, light bodied and very dry, all about citrus and apple cores. It's a delicate wine and very composed and restrained, but has vivid clarity too.

(2024) A slightly firmer style in this lees-aged wine, the nose hinting at passion fruit and lime peel, a ripe peachiness beneath, fermentation with wild yeast adding a savoury note. On the palate that concentrated, zesty concentration drives this, a pithy lemon grapefruit towards the finish making it gastronomic and dry, with good, precise length.

(2024) Gently pressed at low pressure, this was fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees for six months. I believe there are small amounts of both Caíño and Loureira in the blend. A lightly honeyed, lightly tropical aroma, overlaid with fragrant jasmine and a little almondy softness. In the mouth this has plenty of fruit-driven personality, with quite a firm peach and herb combination and plenty of zippy citrus. A little less sea breezy than the Salnes wines perhaps, but still fresh as a daisy.