(2024) From the sub-region of Condado de Tea, this very pure and intense Rías Baixas opens with succulent pear and lemon rind, but added complexity comes from small floral and saline nuances that emerge. The palate has a much fuller texture than some, quite luxurious in effect with sweet peach juice and fat, limey flavours. That hint of salt and a touch of spice keeps the wine balanced and long. Watch my video review for more information. £15.25 when bought by the case.
(2024) From the coastal Salnés valley in Galicia, a cool area. Only Albariño is grown, all on pergola, and the wine is made in a combination of stainless steel and 500 and 600-litre French oak barrels. Wines from Salnes almost always show some saline, seaspray character and that's the situation here, against lemon rind and dry, apple core notes. In the mouth there is some breadth, some fruit brightness on the mid-palate hinting a honeyed quality, but it's that saline and light bready character that pushes through. Note price and stockist are for the previous vintage at time of review.
(2024) The distinctive blue packaging and sea-spray label sends the message that this wine comes from the Salnés Valley and some of the vineyards most exposed to the Atlantic weather in all of Galicia. It has classic Rías Baixas aromatics, with saline notes mingling with lemon and crisp green apple. On the palate there is real intensity here - moreso than in some examples - with a bite of citrus acidity anchoring the medium-bodied, cool fruit character. That ozoney, seaside nuance is never far away in a very high quality Albariño. Watch the video for more information and food matching ideas. Also in independent merchants.
(2024) From vineyards in the Val do Salnés, this Albariño is cool-fermented in stainless steel. Vibrant, crunchy green apple dominates the nose, all about zip and crunch, a little suggestion of ozone freshness. In the mouth all that citrus and green apple bite and zing is there, but there's some succulence and delicately tropical fruit plus an orange-like combination of sweetness and freshness into the finish.
(2023) Mostly Albariño planted in 2000, but blended with Godello, Loureiro and Caíño Blanco, this is a new single-estate wine set for release in 2024. It comes from vineyards in Salnes and spent one year on the lees, then a further two maturing in small steel and concrete vats, still on the lees with regular stirring. The aromatics hint at exotic tropical fruits, but such a distinct saline mineral character too. There's a hint of breadiness from that lees work. Hints of pineapple and lychee compound that tropical character, with a sweep of lemon and grapefruit that gives a bone dry finish, tangy and pithy, but some orange peel character too. Not available in the UK at time of review.
(2023) Sparkling Albarino is still something of a rarity, but this is a fine example that suggests we should see more. Bone dry with its zero dosage, there's an oyster shell character on the nose, apple and a little hint of nuttiness. The palate has searing acidity, again the saline character unmissable. A little ripeness to the mid-palate fruit hints at peach. Most enjoyable. Multibuy price £26.55.
(2023) An Albariño from a single vineyard and, unusualy, cellared for several years prior to release, including six months on the lees. It's a wine with a more sultry aspect than many from this appellation, that extended ageing adding a creaminess to the yellow apple fruit, a fine sense of wet river pebbles and delicate floral notes adding definite class. In the mouth quite broad, concentrated and relatively powerful. There's a core of juicy oranges and lemons citrus, but some nuttiness and broader, fuller appeal through the mid-palate too. A beautiful wine. £28.80 on Multi-buy.
(2023) Made by Pagos del Rey, a group with wineries in several Spanish regions, this come from Rías Baixas, the most celebrated region for the Albariño variety. There's a touch of elderflower and kiwi fruit on the nose here, rather Sauvignonesque, a light smoke and peach beneath, only a whisper of the saline character these wines sometimes display. The palate has a certain richness. Is there a little residual sugar here? Though a big, citrussy acid core comes through on the finish, I do find this has that slightly sweet 'n sour, maybe even cloying character, meaning it lacks the ultimate crispness I look for in Rías Baixas.
(2023) This is 100% Mencia from very old vines, a little of which sees oak for three months. Buoyant but full and rich fruit character, blackberry and floral-edged bright notes of strawberry, but smooth and deep. The palate has delicious sweetness of ripe fruit, a real creamy and rounded sweetness. Depth here, the finish freshened more by the fruit acidity than tannin, but a lovely finish.
(2023) From old vines planted in the highest part of the estate, yields here are very low. A full 24 months on lees is evident on the nose, where salts and lemons carry a certain fat and suggestion of skinny grip. The palate has great saline richness and full flavour, a nut husk and salty dryness but not with juiciness and mouth-watering freshness. Gastronomic, serious and lovely.
