(2024) The terroir in question is Swartland, for a wine made by the Gabb Family of Journey's End in Stellenbosch, but from Swartland vineyards planted in 1987. Bush vines are planted on sandy loam soils, and partially dry farmed without irrigation. The wine is unoaked, but clearly has seen lees ageing given its creaminess of both aroma and texture. On the nose there is passion fruit and guava, a buttery but tropical character. On the palate there is plentiful sweetness and richness in a wine with just 12.5% alcohol, the lime and lemon acidity has a bit of fatness, so the whole picture is well balanced but generous in style. Watch the video for more information and food-matching ideas.
(2024) Last time I tasted this wine was the 2014 vintage and indeed, the wine was not made again until the 2019 vintage when Ian could once again access the fruit. Pale in colour and featherweight with 11% alcohol, there's a definite rose-hip and redcurrant lightness to the aromas and on the palate. A little creamy and vanilla nuance from old barrel ageing is way in the background. Firm, small and savoury red fruits with a herbal nuance on the palate dominate in this savoury, dry and light wine with very fine tannins and sour cherry acidity to balance.
(2024) This wine, as much as any other in the Naudé portfolio, struck me as the essence of 'natural' Chenin, with neither the flinty reductive quality of some hip examples, nor the enhanced fruitiness of more commercial bottlings. Fruit comes from vineyards in Swartland, Durbanville and Stellenbosch, fermented naturally in oak and aged six months. It's a wine with an unforced concentration, only 11.5% alcohol, but the dry, savoury precision of the 50-year-old vineyard fruit, like yellow plum and greengage, just teasing at something more luscious. It is textured, but sharpened by a fine acidity.
(2024) Jolandie Fouché makes this wine from old Bush vines in Swartland, fermented with wild yeast and aged in French oak. Almost buttercup yellow, there's a buttery richness and nutrients, the fruit fat and lemony, the wild yeast giving just a touch of sauvage quality, a hint of flinty minerals too. The palate has great sweetness and ripeness, citrus and nutty apple, the acidity really very good, slicing through the succulence of the mid-palate, a little creamy oak adding another layer into a long finish.
(2023) Barrels of flor-affected wine are used as a starter culture, then blended into larger quantities of Sauvignon Blanc. Lovely glowing yellow/lime. Soft and creamy, with with a vibrant lemon and orange tang, with a very keen edge and touches of spangle brightness. Broad in texture with such bright fruit, this was arguably my favourite wine of the tasting.
(2023) The name is of course a pun on Vin Jaune, for this is a wine styled after the famous voile-affected wines of the Jura, even coming in a similar little squat bottle. Matured under veil for four years, it is 100% Sauvignon Blanc (rather than Savignin) from limestone soils under sand. Gorgeous, walnutty, orange and marmalade notes, bready and again the brightness of lemon comes through. This has great freshness, with a touch of curry-leaf adding intrigue. Perhaps the veil effect could be felt even more strongly, but a fun and very good wine. No retail stockists listed in the UK at time of review.
(2023) This is a 1978 planting of the rare Barbarossa, of which only a few hectares exist in the world. With eight months maturation, it's a blend of partially dried and fresh grapes, in an Amarone style. Intriguing nose, chestnut and gentle beetroots earthiness, creamy fruit, but brambles and subtle juiciness. There is great juiciness on the palate, ripe black berries and sweetness really pushes through. Good balancing acidity again.
(2023) Though home is undoubtedly still Stellenbosch, Ken now has a few wine emanating from Swartland. Aged in all old barrels after spontaneous ferment, this is deep, apricot, creamy and waxy, honeyed stuff. Beautiful, unctuous with lemon jelly fruitiness and a long, shimmering finish.
(2022) Made by Zimbawian refugee Joseph Dhafana in Swartland. It comes from 20-year-old vineys grown on shale and spends 18 months in used barrels. Quite a meaty Syrah, a touch of bacon fat and deep black fruit. Big, juicy and sweet on the palate, so much purity and intensity. Lots of juicy acidity and fine tannins too, a deliciously drinkable Syrah with a great back story.
(2022) The Chocolate Block is a wine that has developed a devoted following over the years, based mainly on Syrah grown in the Swartland. It's made by Boekenhoutskloof, and a fair chunk of the fruit comes from their Porseleinberg vineyard, a wild and rocky place widely regarded as one of Swartland's best terroirs. The nose is all about mocha and spice, and a wild berry fruitiness that comes through - the 'chocolate' is a subtle reference, as this is about spicy, peppery fruit at heart. There's grip aplenty on the palate, a streak of meaty umami character, gripping sandy tannins and edged with a vivid acidity for gastronomic appeal. Not to be confused with the rather sickly vogue for chocolate or coffee-flavoured wines, this remains a class act. Watch the video for more information.
