Stockist/Retailer: Nickolls & Perks

(2024) Tavola is part of the small range that introduces Ponzi, made with a combination of estate and purchased fruit from across Willamette. Max calls this a 'fun' wine and a 'pizza wine'. Nicely pale and transparent, it is leafy and perfumed, touches of pot-pourri spices and red fruits. The palate has brightness and plenty of drive. It is medium-bodied, and the mid-palate fleshes out with creamy and sweet berries. Tannins and acid combine to again add a sparky, lemony freshness to the finish. Note price and stockist for previous vintage at time of review.

(2024) Fruit is 100% Laurelwood, a small amount from local growers who planted their vineyards with Laurelwood cuttings. Fermentation included 10% whole cluster, fermented in small lots. It was aged in French oak barrels (30% new) for 10 months. Deep cherry touched by briar and spice, there's a tiny edge of sweet vanilla and something floral. Beautifully sweet as it strikes the palate, this has succulence and an undertow of orange and sour Chinese plum. Tannins are moderate and creamy rather than forceful, giving this a long, spiced fruit finish. Again, stockist and price for previous vintage at time of review.

(2023) I've followed Brian Croser's Tapanappa for many years, including this Pinot Noir from South Australia - not particularly common, but these vineyards on the Fleurieu Peninsula close to McLaren Vale offer relatively cool conditions that suit this variety. The aromas are of plum and lightly earthy chestnut and briar, a hint of chocolate but also a little hint of strawberry. In the mouth this is fresh and has a certain crunch to the fruit, an orange or grapefruit tang to the acidity and tight tannins give it some structure but freshness. There is some depth here too, quite a dark fruit profile nicely set against that freshness.

(2021) From a tiny plot of little over 0.3 hectares facing south-east and largely limestone, also including rock, marl, sand, red silt, and large crushed pebbles. Planted over 1990 and 1991. Benoit says the acidity is always a little higher here. A beautifully perfumed and bright style here, and yes, reminds me of pomegranate and redcurrant (groseilles is French for redcurrant) with a lovely bite of energising acidity, but free-flowing and juicy, a stripe of fine tannin, but such lovely elegance here. Approximate bottle equivalent price given.

(2021) From an east-facing vineyard of limestone soil in the Côte de Nuits, where large blocks of stone give the vineyard its name, vines were planted in 1950-1951. Deep, and relatively saturated garnet in colour, the nose is suffused with spiced black fruits, a little wild cherry note, and sweet earthiness hinting at menthol in this very young wine. In the mouth there's a phalanx of tannin and keen cherry-pit acidity driving for now, the firm, savoury fruit more in the red fruit specturm, a little umami and hard, steely precision of cool concentration. A tightly-wound wine that will need years to properly develop its aromas and flavours, and will cellar for decades. Intensity and balance are both superb already. Price and stockist quoted is for the previous vintage at time of review. Around 280€ per bottle in France.

(2021) What a lovely young wine this is, from a 'monopole' walled vineyard in the middle of Volnay, extending to 2.3 hectares and named 'Bousse d'Or' because authorities would not allow a domaine and vineyard of the same name. Vineyards were planted between the 1950s and 1970s. There's a delightful raspberry-scented, bright red fruit character here, spices, flowers and pomegranate in a fragrant and crunchy profile. In the mouth it is so racy and bright, etched and edged by its acidity and tight tannins, the character is red fruited again, with fine length and lots of character. Price quoted at time of review is for the previous vintage.

(2020) Paul says the Taransud barrels bring out the aromatics in this wine.  Quite a resinous, balsamic quality from the oak at first, lots of vanilla and also game and bloody notes. On the palate quite plummy but with a cherry freshness, taut, quite dominant tannins but good balance and length.

(2020) With an average age of 12 years, this is a limited edition presented in a facsimile historic bottle.   Not so expressive on the nose as the 10-year-old perhaps, a sweet, clean spirit but relatively straightforward with tangy dry acids and soft tannins.

(2019) A slightly warmer than usual spring with well-distributed and regular rainfall, the pattern following through into summer giving homogenous ripening. Slightly lower yields of 30 hl/ha compared to 2015, again a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, with 24 months in barriques, 85% new. Gorgeous perfume, some floral notes, also a pleasing edge of game and bloodiness that adds a lovely layer of complexity. Such deliciously sweet fruit, and while that sour cherry acidity and the steely core of tannin is there, there is a supple, slightly more feminine character that drinks beautifully. Will cellar 10 years+

(2018) Following the heat and tiny yields of the previous vintage, the vines responded with vigour in 2004, producing grapes generous in both quantity and quality.  A 'classic' (or perhaps more accurately 'old fashioned') DP, the 2004 is leaner in style, pretty and flowery, demonstrating diffuse sweetness of fruit.  Toasty aromas beginning to develop.  Just coming out of its shell after an adolescent grumpy phase that many ‘04’s have been going through, this has a bright future.  On potential, 96/100.  Drink 2018-2040.