(2024) Appassimento is a process for making wines using dried, or partially dried grapes. Much more common with red wines, from Amarone to Valpolicella Ripasso, the technique used here was to dry some of the grapes on mats, and for others the stem was twisted while still on the vine, so nutrition to the bunch was blocked and grapes began to dry in the heat and sun. A tinge of gold to the moderately deep green colour, this suggests some sweetness on the nose, and indeed the palate teases with a hint of residual sugar giving a candied character rather than overt sweetness. It is charming, full-bodied and packed with juicy flavour in a crowd-pleasing style. Watch the video for more information and food-matching ideas.
(2024) Lots of talk on the back label about this wine, and its Sangiovese red partner, offering a 'bold new twist' on tradition. It's made by giant Australia-based Accolade Wines, distributors of numerous brands. Both wines are IGT Terre Siciliane from Sicily. Fiano di Avellino from Campania is the icon of this variety, and this shares the basic characteristics of gentle honey, herbs and lemon. But it is as if the dial had been turned up in terms of talcum-powder and floral perfumed aromatics, and sweetness on the palate. To that end, for me it does come across as slightly too 'manufactured'. A hint of residual sugar adds to nagging feeling of marketing being the driver, rather than a rather more unforced honesty. No doubt this will appear with a pound or two off fairly regularly.
(2023) Another organic certified orange wine, this made from 80% Inzolia and 20% Zibibbo (the latter is the Sicilian name for Muscat). It's the Zibibbo that dominates the aromatics here, with plenty of floral and orange (fruit) tones, something that reminds me of geranium leaf. In the mouth there's quite a powerful, intense character here, from both a nip of tannin and the spicy fruit concentration. That, plus pithy acids and an almost umami character makes for quite a decisive wine that's full of interest.
(2023) This Etna white is 100% Carricante, from vineyards at 700 metres. It is unoaked, but does spend time on lees before bottling. Malolactic has been blocked here too, adding to the freshness of this straw-lemon coloured wine. Though not particularly aromatic, the subtle notes of citrus and pear, also have just a suggestion of something flinty and mineral. In the mouth it is fleet if foot with only 12.5% alcohol, and though lemon and crunchy apple drives this, there is a nice and decisive punch to the wine, a light suggestion of smokiness and pithy lemon and grapefruit adding some complexity. The finish shows a little salt, mingling with juicy lemon. €22 in Italy.
(2023) A Sicilia DOC Nerello Mascalese from vineyards at 400 metres, bush vines that lie just outside the Etna DOC boundary. This spends around nine months in French oak and a further six in bottle before release. A pale ruby to tawny colour, this is so transparent in the glass that you could read your newspaper through it. Aromtaically not giving a huge amount, though herbs and cherry start to come through with swirling, a warm clove spice hint too. In the mouth it is dry and firm, showing less fruit than the 'Sublime', a more twiggy and herbal character. Acid and moderate tannins do balance, in a wine that just needs more fruit and just a touch more joie de vivre to really hit home. €24 in Italy.
(2023) 100% Nerello Mascalese from vineyards at 600 metres, these are 100-year-old bush vines. The wine was matured in French oak for 18 months, with a further six in bottle. The colour is again so transparent and light, but also with quite mahogany tint to the red of the core. Woody, tobacco and balsamic aromas are spicy rather than fruity, and a glimpse of fragrant old roses is unexpected and charming. In the mouth there is sweet fruit, a sour cherry character with more of those tobacco-like, soft and spicy characters. It is dry, the tannin quite gentle but present and the acidity again echoing that sour cherry. Intriguing, natural feeling and enjoyable. No UK stockists listed at time of review. €26 in Italy.
(2023) This organic Frappato from Sicily comes from distinctive red soils ('Rina Russa'), the grape native to this south-easterly part of the island. It spends 4-6 months in stainless steel tanks with regular stirring of the fine lees. Best served lightly chilled, Frappato makes a very pale coloured wine, almost like a Tavel or other very dark rosés. It is so aromatic: floral for sure, with an almost geranium perfume, some chestnut and bright red fruits. In the mouth a strawberry sundae sweetness, but it is all fruit, not residual sugar, a hallmark of this variety. A layering of spicy, subtle tannin and elegant framework of acidity balance that pretty sweetness to finish with some depth. Something very much out of the ordinary and could be a summer sensation. Watch the video for more information and food-matching ideas.
(2023) 90% Nerello Mascalese with some Nerello Cappuccio, from very old bush vines. Around 80% is matured in old wood, but huge 6,000 litre chesnut casks. Big, bold, bloody nose, so much game, flowers and a kirsch-like volatile edge of lift adding to the aromatic power. The palate really vibrant, an intensity, but relatively pale in colour and with a vibrant, floral edged red fruit reminiscent of Pinot Noir in some ways. Finishes with gentle tannins, but good acidity and fruit concentration.
(2023) From south eastern Sicily, the Nero d'Avola is grown organically and the wine made without the addition of sulphur, in something close to 'natural wine' requirements. There's a vivid pink tinge to the purple colour, and a nose of cherries, pomegranate and light earthiness. In the mouth a burst of sweet fruit as it strikes the palate, then orange and tangy citrus in a light- to medium-bodied format. The wine stays crisp and refreshing despite its 14% alcohol, which really doesn't make its presence felt save for a touch of heat in the finish. Attractively drinkable with pizza or a burger perhaps.
(2022) Quite fragrant, some herbal and wild scrubland aromas. This organically grown wine is related to Catarrato, and has crisp, dry lemon and firm underripe pear fruit that is cool and precise. Plenty of mouth-watering minerally acidity, firm with a nuance of an Epsom salts edge.
